1835.] LACK OF RAIN. 345 



very narrow, and produces so little pasture, that we could 

 not purchase any for our horses. At Sauce we found a 

 very civil old gentleman, superintendhig a copper-smelting 

 furnace. As an especial favour, he allowed me to purchase 

 at a high price an armful of dirty straw, which was all 

 the poor horses had for supper after their long day's 

 journey. Few smelting-furnaces are now at work in any 

 part of Chile ; it is found more profitable, on account ot 

 the extreme scarcity of firewood, and from the Chilian 

 method of reduction being so unskilful, to ship the ore 

 for Swansea, The next day we crossed some mountains 

 to Freyrina, in the valley of Guasco. During each 

 day's ride farther northward, the vegetation became 

 more and more scanty ; even the great chandelier-like 

 cactus was here replaced by a different and much 

 smaller species. During the winter months, both in 

 northern Chile and in Peru, a uniform bank of clouds 

 hangs, at no great height, over the Pacific. From the 

 mountains we had a very striking view of this white 

 and brilliant aerial-field, which sent arms up the valleys, 

 leaving islands and promontories in the same manner 

 as the sea does in the Chonos Archipelago and in Tierra 

 del Fuego. 



We stayed two days at Freyrina. In the valley of Guasco 

 there are four small towns. At the mouth there is the 

 port, a spot entirely desert, and without any water in 

 the immediate neighbourhood. Five leagues higher up 

 stands Freyrina, a long straggling village, with decent 

 whitewashed houses. Again, ten leagues farther up 

 Ballenar is situated ; and above this Guasco Alto, a horti- 

 cultural village, famous for its dried fruit. On a clear 

 day the view up the valley is very fine ; the straight 

 opening terminates in the far-distant snowy Cordillera ; 

 on each side an infinity of crossing lines are blended 

 together in a beautiful haze. The foreground is singular 

 from the number of parallel and step -formed terraces; 

 and the included strip of green valley, with its willow- 

 bushes, is contrasted on both hands with the naked hills. 

 That the surrounding country was most barren will be 

 readily believed, when it is known that a shower of rain 

 had not fallen during the last thirteen months. The 

 inhabitants heard with the greatest envy of the rain at 

 Coquimbo ; from the appearance of the sky they had hopes 

 »f equally good fortune, whit I), ;< fortnight afti^rward 



