36o A REAL DESERT. [chap. xvi. 



though the capital of this province, is two hundred leagues 

 distant; the j^^overnment there thought it a pit}^ to punish 

 such useful workmen, who could make all sorts of furniture ; 

 and accordingly liberated them. Things being in this 

 state, the churches were again broken open, but this time 

 the plate was not recovered. Tiie inhabitants became 

 dreadfully enraged, and declaring that none but heretics 

 would thus "eat God Almighty," proceeded to torture 

 some Englishmen, with the intention of afterwards shoot- 

 ing them. At last the authorities interfered, and peace was 

 established. 



July i^th. — In the morning I started for the saltpetre- 

 works, a distance of fourteen leagues. Having ascended 

 the steep coast-mountains by a zigzag sandy track, we 

 soon came in view of the mines of Guantajaya and St. 

 Rosa. These two small villages are placed at the very 

 mouths of the mines ; and being perched up on hills, they 

 had a still more unnatural and desolate appearance than the 

 town of Iquique. We did not reach the saltpetre-works till 

 after sunset, having ridden all day across an undulating 

 country, a complete and utter desert. The road was 

 strewed with the bones and dried skins of the many beasts 

 of burden which had perished on it from fatigue. Except- 

 ing the Vultur aura^ which preys on the carcasses, I saw 

 neitlier bird, quadruped, reptile, nor insect. On the coast- 

 mountains, at the height of about two thousand feet, where 

 during this season the clouds generally hang, a very few 

 cacti were growing in the clefts of rock ; and the loose sand 

 was strewed over with a lichen, which lies on the surface 

 quite unattached. This plant belc ngs to the genus Cladonia, 

 and somewhat resembles the reindeer lichen. In some parts 

 it was in sufficient quantity to tinge the sand, as seen from 

 a distance, of a pale yellowish colour. Farther inland, 

 during the whole ride of fourteen leagues, I saw only one 

 other vegetable production, and that was a most minute 

 yellow lichen, growing on the )>ones of the dead mules. 

 This w^as the first true desert which I had seen : the effect 

 on me was not impressive ; but I believe this was owing to 

 my having become gradually accustomed to such scenes, as 

 I rode northward from Valparaiso, through Coquimbo, to 

 Gopiap6. The appearance of the country was remarkable, 

 from being covered by a thick crust of common salt, and of 

 a stratified saliferous alluvium, which seems to have been 

 deposited as the land slowly rose above the level of the sea. 



