4IO A ROYAL VISIT. [chap, xviii. 



made a perfect conclusion to this very remarkable scene of 

 loyalty and good feeling. 



After the main discussion was ended, several of the chiefs 

 took the opportunity of asking Captain Fitz Roy many 

 intelligent questions on international customs and laws, 

 relating to the treatment of ships and foreigners. On 

 some points, as soon as the decision was made, the law 

 was issued verbally on the spot. This Tahitian parliament 

 lasted for several hours ; and when it was over. Captain Fitz 

 Roy invited Queen Pomare to pay the Beagle a visit. 



November 2^th. — In the evening four boats were sent for 

 her majesty ; the ship was dressed with flags, and the yards 

 manned on her coming on board. She was accompanied by 

 most of the chiefs. The behaviour of all was very proper : 

 they begged for nothing, and seemed much pleased with 

 Captain Fitz Roy's presents. The Queen is a large 

 awkward woman, without any beauty, grace, or dignity. 

 She has only one royal attribute ; a perfect immovability of 

 expression under all circumstances, and that rather a sullen 

 one. The rockets were most admired ; and a deep ** Oh !" 

 could be heard from the shore, all round the dark bay, after 

 each explosion. The sailors' songs were also much admired ; 

 and the Queen said she thought that one of the most 

 boisterous ones certainly could not be a hymn ! The royal 

 party did not return on shore till past midnight. 



November 26th. — In the evening, with a gentle land- 

 breeze, a course was steered for New Zealand ; and as the 

 sun set, we had a farewell view of the mountains of Tahiti 

 — the island to which every voyager has offered up his 

 tribute of admiration. 



December \<^th. — In the evening we saw in the distance 

 New Zealand. We may now consider that we have nearly 

 crossed the Pacific. It is necessary to sail over this great 

 ocean to comprehend its immensity. Moving quickly 

 onwards for weeks together, we meet with 'nothing but 

 the same blue, profoundly deep, ocean. Even within the 

 archipelagoes, the islands are mere specks, and far distant 

 one from the other. Accustomed to look at maps drawn 

 on a small scale, where dots, shading, and names are 

 crowded together, we do not rightly judge how infinitely 

 small the proportion of dry land is to the water of this vast 

 expanse. The meridian of the Antipodes has likewise been 

 passed ; and now every league, it made us happy to think, 

 was one league nearer to England. These Antipodes call 



