4i8 A ONE-SIDED CONVERSATION, [chap. xvin. 



desolate aspect. The sight of so much fern impresses the 

 mind with an idea of sterility ; this, however, is not correct ; 

 for wherever the fern grows thick and breast-high, the 

 land by tillage becomes productive. Some of the residents 

 think that all this extensive open country originally was 

 covered with forests, and that it has been cleared by fire. 

 It is said, that by digging in the barest spots, lumps of 

 the kind of resin which flows from the kauri pine are 

 frequently found. . The natives had an evident motive in 

 clearing the country ; for the fern, formerly a staple article 

 of food, flourishes only in the open cleared tracks. The 

 almost entire absence of associated grasses, which forms 

 so remarkable a feature in the vegetation of this island, 

 may perhaps be accounted for by the land having been 

 aboriginally covered with forest-trees. 



The soil is volcanic ; in several parts we passed over 

 slaggy lavas, and craters could clearly be distinguished on 

 several of the neighbouring hills. Although the scenery 

 is nowhere beautiful, and only occasionally pretty, I en- 

 joyed my walk. I should have enjoyed it more, if my 

 companion, the chief, had not possessed extraordinary 

 conversational powers. I knew only three words ; *' good," 

 "bad," and "j^es"; and with these I answered all his 

 remarks, without of course having understood one word 

 he said. This, however, was quite sufficient : I was a 

 good listener, an agreeable person, and he never ceased 

 talking to me. 



At length we reached Waimate. After having passed 

 over so many miles of an uninhabited useless country, 

 the sudden appearance of an English farmhouse, and its 

 well-dressed fields, placed there as if by an enchanter's 

 wand, was exceedingly pleasant. Mr. Williams not being at 

 home, I received in Mr. Davies's house a cordial welcome. 

 After drinking tea with his family party, we took a stroll 

 about the farm. At Waimate there are three large houses, 

 where the missionary gentlemen, Messrs. Williams, Davies, 

 and Clarke, reside ; and near them are the huts of the 

 native labourers. On an adjoining slope, fine crops of 

 barley and wheat were standing in full ear ; and in another 

 part, fields of potatoes and clover. But I cannot attempt 

 to describe all I saw ; there were large gardens, with every 

 fruit and vegetable which England produces ; and many 

 belonging to a warmer clime. I may instance asparagus, 

 kidney beans, cucumbers, rhubarb, apples, pears, figs, 



