482 AT ASCENSION. [chap. xxi. 



I so much enjoyed my rambles among the rocks and 

 mountains of St. Helena, that I felt almost sorry on the 

 morning of the 14th to descend to the town. Before noon 

 I was on board, and the Beagle made sail. 



On the 19th of July we reached Ascension. Those who 

 have beheld a volcanic island, situated under an arid climate, 

 will at once be able to picture to themselves the appearance 

 of Ascension. They will imagine smooth conical hills of 

 a bright red colour, with their summits generally truncated, 

 rising separately out of a level surface of black rugged lava. 

 A principal mound in the centre of the island, seems the 

 father of the lesser cones. It is called Green Hill ; its name 

 being taken from the faintest tinge of that colour, which 

 at this time of the year is barely perceptible from the 

 anchorage." To complete the desolate scene, the black 

 rocks on the coast are lashed by a wild and turbulent sea. 



The settlement is near the beach ; it consists of several 

 houses and barracks placed irregularly, but well built of 

 white freestone. The only inhabitants are marines, and 

 some negroes liberated from slaveships, who are paid and 

 victualled by government. There is not a private person on 

 the island. Many of the marines appeared well contented 

 with their situation ; they think it better to serve one-and- 

 twenty years .on shore, let it be what it may, than in a ship ; 

 in this choice, if I werea marine, I should most heartily agree. 



The next morning I ascended Green Hill, 2840 feet high, 

 and thence walked across the island to the windward 

 point. A good cart-road leads from the coast-settlement to 

 the houses, gardens, and fields, placed near the summit of 

 the central mountain. On the roadside there are mile- 

 stones, and likewise cisterns, where each thirsty passer-by 

 can drink some good water. Similar care is displayed in 

 each part of the establishment, and especially in the 

 management of the springs, so that a single drop of 

 water may not be lost : indeed the whole island may be 

 compared to a huge ship kept in first-rate order. I 

 could not help, when admiring the active industry which 

 had created such effects out of such means, at the same 

 time regretting that it had been wasted on so poor and 

 trifling an end. M. Lesson has remarked with justice, 

 that the English nation alone would have thought of 

 making the island Ascension a productive spot ; any other 

 people would have held it as a mere fortress in the ocean. 



Near this coast nothing grows ; further inland, an 



