1836.] IN BRAZIL. 485 



probably fallen during- some great eruption, and that thus 

 a temporary lake had been formed, into which the ashes 

 fell. But it may now be suspected that the lake was not a 

 temporary one. Anyhow we may feel sure, that at some 

 former epoch, the climate and productions of Ascension were 

 very different from what they now are. Where on the face 

 of the earth can we find a spot, on which close investigation 

 will not discover signs of that endless cycle of change, to 

 which this earth has been, is, and will be subjected ? 



On leaving Ascension we sailed for Bahia, on the coast 

 of Brazil, in order to complete the chronometrical measure- 

 ment of the world. We arrived there on August ist, and 

 stayed four days, during which I took several long walks. 

 I was glad to find my enjoyment in tropical scenery had 

 not decreased from the want of novelty, even in the 

 slightest degree. The elements of the scenery are so 

 simple, that they are worth mentioning, as a proof on what 

 trifling circumstances exquisite natural beauty depends. 



The country may be described as a level plain of about 

 three hundred feet in elevation, which in all parts has been 

 worn into flat-bottomed valleys. This structure is remark- 

 able in a granitic land, but is nearly universal in all those 

 softer formations of which plains are usually composed. 

 The whole surface is covered by various kinds of stately 

 trees, interspersed with patches of cultivated ground, out 

 of which houses, convents, and chapels -arise. It must be 

 remembered that within the tropics, the wild luxuriance of 

 nature is not lost even in the vicinity of large cities ; for the 

 natural vegetation of the hedges and hillsides overpowers 

 in picturesque effect the artificial labour of man. Hence, 

 there are only a few spots wnere the bright red soil affords 

 .1 strong contrast with the universal clothing of green. 

 I^ rom the edges of the plain there are distant views either 

 of the ocean, or of the great Bay with its low-wooded 

 shores, and on which numerous boats and canoes show 

 (heir white sails. Excepting from these points, the scene 

 is extremely limited ; following the level pathways, on 



ich hand, only glimpses into the wooded valleys' below 



in be obtainedf. The houses, I may add, and especially 

 the sacred edifices, are built in a peculiar and rather fan- 

 tastic style of arcliitecture. They are all white-washed; 

 ') when illumined by the brilliant sun of midday, and as 



on against the pale blue sky of the horizon, they stand out 

 more like shadows than real i>>uildings. 



