196 



FRANGIPANI. 



1859. 



Perfumed 

 Gloves. 



compositions, as pommade, essence, and powder, distinguished by 

 the name of Frangipani or Frangipane, were sold by perfumers 

 down to the early part of the present century, when they 

 gradually fell into disuse. During the last few years, however, 

 the name has again found its way into the list of perfumes, 

 and Frangipani is now more sold than it probably ever was 

 before. The formula for the various compounds, as " Pommade 

 a la Frangipane," "Esprit de Frangipane," &c., are so utterly 

 discrepant, and have such slender pretensions to represent tlie 

 original, that it is needless to quote them, and I shall only refer 

 the reader who wishes for them to the works named below. 1 



The subject of perfumed gloves, which, I may remark, have 

 long since disappeared from use, introduces us to some curious 

 particulars regarding the trades of glover and perfumer. Savary, 

 in his Dictionnaire universel de Commerce (Geneve et Paris, 

 1750), tells us that the glovers of Paris constitute a considerable 

 community, having statutes and laws dating back so far as 1190. 

 These statutes, after receiving various confirmations from the 

 kings of France, were renewed, confirmed, and added to by 

 The Glovers Louis XIV. under Letters Patent in March, 1656. The glovers 

 are therein styled " Marchands Maitres Gantiers-Parfumeurs." 

 In their capacity of glovers they had the right of making and 

 selling gloves and mittens of all sorts of materials, as well as 

 the skins used in making gloves; while as perfumers they 

 enjoyed the privilege of perfuming gloves and of selling all 

 manner of perfumes. Perfumed skins were imported from 

 Spain and Italy, and were used for making gloves, purses, 

 pouches, &c. ; they were very expensive and " fort a la mode," 

 hut their powerful odour led to their disuse. With regard to 

 gloves, Savary remarks : 



. "II s'en tiroit autrefois quautite de parfumes d'Espagne et de 

 Borne; mais leur forte odeur de muse, d'ambre et de civette, 

 qu'on ne pouvoit soutenir sans incommodite, a fait que la mode 

 et 1'usage s'en sont presque perdus : les plus estimes de ces 

 Gans etoient les Gans de Franchipane et ceux de Neroli." 2 



1 Celnart, Nouveau Manuel complet du Parfumeur, Paris, 1854, 1 81110.; 

 Piesse, Art of Perfumery, London, 1856, 8vo. 



2 Tom. i ; . p. 619. 



