PEARS 



1607 



should be pruned while in the dormant 

 state (in fall and winter) with a view to 

 getting the proper shape and foundation 

 on the tree. 



By the end of the fourth or fifth sea- 

 son the trees should all have acquired 

 the proper framework for bearing fruit 

 and from then on but little pruning 

 should be done. That is to say, all heavy 

 cutting and heading back should be ab- 

 solutely discontinued. It will be neces- 

 sary each year to remove water-sprouts 

 and to thin out to some extent, but the 

 ends of the branches should not be cut 

 off as it will certainly promote the wood 

 growth to the detriment of the fruit buds 

 that should begin to form. 



As stated, the first four or five years 

 of the tree's life should be devoted to 

 the growing of wood and so pruning 

 as to make it grow in the proper shape. 

 After that time the attention should be 

 directed to the growing of fruit buds 

 and fruit, and the shape of the tree more 

 or less ignored. After the fourth or 

 fifth year It is not important, in sections 

 like the Rogue River valley, when the 

 pruning is done. Some advocate sum- 

 mer pruning for fruit, but this often 

 interferes with other work on the ranch. 

 Besides this it is hard to see the frame- 

 work of the trees through the leaves, 

 and in pulling a leafy branch through 

 the tree there is considerable danger of 

 raking off the fruit spurs. It aids con- 

 siderably if the water-sprouts are 

 watched during the growing season and 

 removed. This can easily be done by 

 rubbing them off with the hands if they 

 are not allowed much of a start. 



It will require about two years from 

 the time the heading back is stopped 

 until the effect is observed, but if the 

 pruning has been properly done the trees 

 should begin to set fruit buds. To sum 

 up: Cut heavily, esjiecially in the winter, 

 for wood growth: cut lightly and never 

 head back if fruit buds are wanted. 



A. C. Allen, 

 riollywodd fH','har(]s. 



Pickine Tears 



Picking pears depends much on the 

 kinds to be marketed and the purposes 



for which they are intended. For in- 

 stance, if pears are designed for long 

 shipment, they should be picked a little 

 greener than if they are intended for 

 the nearby markets. The Bartlett pear 

 may be picked before it is fully grown 

 if it is desired to do so in order to reach 

 an early market or to lighten the tree 

 of a too heavy burden. In this state if 

 it is wrapped in paper and placed in a 

 dark room or cellar it will ripen nicely 

 and be of excellent flavor. Some skill is 

 necessary in order to determine by the 

 size or color whether the pear is well 

 enough developed to ripen and retain a 

 good flavor, or whether it will wither and 

 be unfit for use. This is one of the arts 

 of the trade, and the pear grower will 

 know first by picking and testing a few, 

 and later as he has gained experience 

 his eye will be a sufficient guide. In Bart- 

 lett pears there are generally three and 

 sometimes four pickings, the largest and 

 best-developed being picked first, and 

 then a few days later others will have 

 developed to a marketable size. Later 

 still others will have developed, and so 

 on until the whole crop is marketed. 



Generally Bartlett pears are consid- 

 ered large enough to pick when they 

 measure two and one-fourth inches in 

 diameter. The Comice, being a larger 

 pear, would measure much larger than 

 this at the proper time for picking, while 

 the Winter Nelis, being a small pear, 

 would not at the proper time for picking 

 measure so much. A good rule by which 

 the amateur can judge as to the ripeness 

 of the fruit is to bend the pear back. If 

 on being bent back the stem separates 

 readily from the spur, it is ready for pick- 

 ing. Care should be taken to not pull oft 

 the fruit spur nor handle the fruit rough- 

 ly. 



Utensils for Picking 



The picking equipment for pears is 

 much the same as for apples. A bucket 

 with a canvas bottom is good, or a sack 

 called a "picking bag." according to the 

 taste of the grower or his notion of what 

 can be best used by his pickers. 



In hauling fruit from the orchard "lug 

 boxes" are necessary. These boxes are 



