52 THE GRAPES OF NEW YORK. 



The statistics given in the last few paragraphs show how greatly the 

 grape-growing of eastern America has increased in the last half century. 

 When one considers that at the time Erskine made his survey in 1859 there 

 were but 6100 acres of grapes in the whole of this great region and that the 

 culture of the European varieties was impossible, the total acreage grown 

 in 1900, namely, 237,998 acres, makes an astounding figure. The results 

 achieved seem all the greater when one considers that many of the best 

 varieties now grown are the first and scarcely any are further removed than 

 the second generation from wild plants. It is doubtful if any other culti- 

 vated plants have attained such importance as our native grapes in so short 

 a time from the wild state. Yet their domestication has scarcely begun 

 and few who grow them realize their possibilities. 



THE wine' AXD grape JUICE INDUSTRIES. 



For over 200 years the grapes grown on this continent were almost 

 wholly for wine-making. Yet the production of grapes was not sufficient 



' Wine is the fermented juice of the grape. When the juice or must of the grape is exposed to 

 temperatures ranging from 55° to 65°?. the micro-organisms which accompany the fruit, the yeast 

 of the wine-maker, are transformed from a comparatively dormant state to one of great activity. 

 The action of the organisms on grape must is called fermentation and through it certain physical 

 and chemical changes take place whereby the must is changed in taste and in color, and a part or 

 all of its sugar is changed into alcohol. The methods of making wine differ in different countries 

 and in different localities depending upon the climate, kind of grapes grown, condition of growth, 

 and the kind of wine produced, yet the principles and chief processes are much the same and may 

 be briefly described as foUov.^s: 



In general grapes are not picked for wine-making until they have reached full maturity thus 

 insuring a higher sugar content, richness of flavor and perfect color. It is customary to determine 

 the composition of the must as to sugar and acid content by various instruments devised for the 

 purpose and if it lack sugar this ingredient is added ; if it be too acid water is added ; or the composi- 

 tion may be otherwise changed depending upon a number of circumstances though manifestly 

 reputable wine-makers change the natural grape juice as little as possible. Soon after harvest- 

 ing the grapes are crushed. The ancient method, which still prevails in many parts of Europe, 

 was to tramp the grapes with bare feet or wooden shoes. Tramping is for most part superseded by 

 mechanical crushers which break the skins but do not crush the seeds. For some wines the stems 

 of the grapes are removed; for others it is essential that the grapes be not stemmed. Stemming may 

 be done by hand, by a rake crver a screen, or by specially devised machines. If white wine is to be 

 made the juice is separated from skins and pulp at once; if red wine is desired fermentation takes 

 place in the crushed grapes or marc. 



Fermentation is carried on in large tanks or vats varying in capacity from 1000 gallons to 10,000 

 gallons or more. Some wine-makers prefer open vats, others keep them closed. The duration of 



