IRIS 



IRIS 



1667 



seeds germinate with considerable irregularity, and 

 failure to start promptly should not lead to discourage- 

 ment or discarding of the pan in which the seeds are 

 sown. J. N. Gerard. 



The iris in California. 



Because such a large proportion of the iris come from 

 around the Mediterranean and so arc accustomed 

 to a thorough baking and drying out in summer, their 

 culture is especially satisfactory in California and the 

 range of varieties available so large that some may be 

 found in flower in all but the late summer months. The 

 first rains usually start a few of the dwarf and tall 

 bearded iris into a premature flowering, this being so 

 regular in the case of the Iris Kocliii that it is now 

 being sold as a fall bloomer. /. slylosa (/, unguicularis) 

 also flowers in the fall and early winter, accompanied 

 at the latter time by the smaller bulbous irises, such as 

 /. reticulata. From February on, the dwarf bearded 

 irises (/. pumila and the mcny slightly taller forms of 

 /. Chamseiris) are covered with masses of flowers in 

 various shades of cream, yellow, blue, and purple. In 

 March and April one has a choice of the tail bearded or 

 so-called German iris, the oncocyclus group, /. spuria, 

 I. ochroleuca, I. aiirea, I. Monnieri, and their cross-bred 

 relatives, as well as the native Cahfornian species and 

 the moistui'e-loving Siberians. May sees the Spanish 

 irises at their best, followed toward the end of the 

 month by the Enghsh iris, and the season ends in June 

 or July with the big Japanese. 



The cultural directions for California are simple, 

 varying somewhat with each main group. The tall 

 bearded varieties grow so easily and are so clean and 

 go nearly evergreen that the tj^je (/. gennanica and its 

 white form) is often used for planting between side- 

 walk and curb. Yet the many beautiful kinds to be 

 found in the /. pallida, I. plicata, I. neglecta, I. varie- 

 gala, and /. squalens sections are not very often seen, 

 although their culture is quite as easy. All they require 

 is sunlight and a place which becomes quite dry in 

 the summer, the easiest possible conditions to supply in 

 California. They disHke shade and standing moisture. 

 Soil is not important, as equally fine results have been 

 secured in the heavy adobe of the valleys and in gravelly 

 hillside loams. Divide to single rhizomes and replant 

 when they show signs of being crowded. This is best 

 done just after blooming or in late summer, but it is 

 possible at any time of the year. 



Next to the above, the bulbous Spanish irises give 

 the best garden effect and lead in usefulness as cut- 

 flowers. The httle bulbs should be at least 3 inches 

 underground by October, if possible, as they dry up 

 if left too long before planting. Distance apart is a 

 matter of taste, but they may go as close as 3 inches if 

 space is valuable, and may even be used as a top crop 

 between tulip or daffodil bulbs to keep up the show in a 

 small garden. Plant in any cultivated soil, but see 

 that drainage is good, as the stems rot off if subjected 

 to stagnant water. After blooming, do not cut the 

 stems to the ground if flowers are desired next year, for 

 the shght fohage is needed to ripen the bulbs. Many 

 of the best varieties, however, are so cheap that where 

 ground is valuable they may be discarded after bloom- 

 ing, though if left to ripen properly they will increase so 

 rapidly that division will be necessary every other 

 year. Enghsh irises are not nearly so satisfactory, 

 though their flowers are larger. They need much more 

 moisture than the Spanish irises, and are more to be 

 recommended to those who can give plenty of water 

 and partial shade. 



The oncocj'clus and regeha irises do better in CaU- 

 fornia than anywhere else in America, as they must be 

 dried off in summer and no artificial means are neces- 

 sary here. Contrary to European practice, the best 

 success is achieved by planting as soon as received in 



October and encouraging growth so that the plants 

 will be ready to bloom in March and April. No special 

 soil is recommended, but it is desirable to cater to their 

 hme-loving taste by incorporating old plaster and bone- 

 flour in the earth. They are nowhere easy plants to 

 grow, so, if success be achieved the first year, leave the 

 roots alone. Under these conditions, /. susiana, I. 

 alrofusca, I. iberica, I. Lortetii, I. Korolkowvi, and 

 others bloom quite well. The Juno irises do fairly well 

 under these same conditions, but are still rather an 

 experiment. 



Most striking features of many gardens in April are 

 huge clumps of /. orienialis (I. ochroleuca). For cul- 

 ture these can be grouped with /. spuria, I. aurea, and 

 /. Monnieri, as all hke. lots of water during their 

 growing season, which is fortunately our rainy one, 

 but again somewhat contr.ary to experience else- 

 where they can get thi'ough the dry season without 

 irrigation. 



The Siberian and Japanese iris, however, need moist- 

 ure as much here as elsewhere, and, though the amount 

 required may be lessened by heavily mulching the bed 

 with rotten manure, they are certainly less adapted 

 to our natural conditions than the other sections of the 

 genus. In the warmer, sunnier parts of the state, the 

 flowers often burn badly and have to be protected with 

 lath screens, an unsightly arrangement. Their most 

 suitable place is in a Japanese garden where they can 

 get the overflow of a pool, and if this is in the summer- 

 fog belt they are quite satisfactory. 



The Cahfornian iris are well worthy of garden 

 cultivation, /. Douglasiana, with its range of color 

 from purple tlu-ough hlac to buff, being especially 

 attractive. Do not dig up the wild plants when in bloom, 

 as they will not move well at that time. Either raise 

 from seed or hft them when growth starts in at the 

 beginning of the rainy season, this being the only safe 

 time to move any of the native species. 



Twenty-five distinct tall bearded irises for Cali- 

 fornia, omitting only expensive novelties: 



Asiatica (Kharput), amas, Kochii. 



PaUida, pallida dahnatica (Princess Beatrice), 

 Albert Victor, Queen of May, Madame Paquette. 



Madame Chereau, Mrs. Reuthe. 



Mrs. Horace Darwin, Victorine (weak grower), 

 Isolene. 



Perfection, Cottage Maid. 



Darius, Gracchus, Hector, Mrs. Neubronner. 



Jacquesiana, King of Irises. 



Cengialtii, florentina, flavescens, cypriana superba. 

 Sydney B. Mitchell. 



Orris-root cultivation. 



Orris-root (corruption of iris-root) is apparently the 

 product of /. germanica and related species; the 

 violet-scented roots are used for perfumery powders, 

 dentrifices, and for bad breath; the "fingers" made from 

 the rhizomes are used for teething babies. 



As orris-root is no longer used for artificial violet, 

 the price has receded to normal, and probably if 

 grown in this country would not pay. However, as it 

 is Ukely to be of interest to the public and experimen- 

 ters, the following notes are quoted from L. J. Keena, 

 Florence, Italy, in a commercial publication. 



"The soil in which this root is grown has much to 

 do with the quahty, as well as with the quantity and 

 fragrance of the root, and therefore with its commer- 

 cial success. This plant grows in different kinds of soil, 

 but that best adapted to its growth is the stony moun- 

 tain soil. This, however, must be scientifically pre- 

 pared so that the under soil will not remain compact, 

 for that would be disastrous to the plant during the 

 summer months. In a loose soil containing sand the 

 roots grow well, but are less odorous and compact. 

 Rich yellow soil is still less adapted to its culture, as the 



