524 



BORDER 



BORDER 



hollyhocks and swoot \villi;uns are an rsspntial that 

 shouki ho providoil fiTr in a rcsrrvo ^jurden, and moved 

 to tho phu'O in which tliey arc dcsircil to bloom a.s gaps 

 occur. AnnuiUs are neccssjiry, such as mignonette, 

 liirkspur, CiUidytuft, a.sters, stocks and other favorites 

 to help out tlie display during July and August, for 

 this is a period when pereiuiials in bloom are scarce. 

 There should be a background of shrubs with a group or 

 individual dwarf slirub here and there to break up the 

 flatness, esptvially in winter and early spring. 



It is a quc.-ition whether spring-flowering bulbs are 

 admissible in this t.\pe of permanent border. It is 

 luMter to keep them in a place by themselves for the 

 reason that it is dillicult to make changes when the 

 ground is i)lanted with bulbs, and to lift these at 

 stated periods necessitates disturbing all the other 

 occupants. .\ grouj) of Darwin tulips here and there is 

 much admired and in keeping, but. a general planting 

 is better made elsewhere, as under trees and among 

 ferns. 



A bonier being permanent, no effort should be 

 spared to prepare thoroughly in the beginning. Decp- 

 nx)ting plants, as peonies, hemerocallis, delphiniums 

 and columbines, require deep preparation of the soil 

 and liberal enrichment, double-digging or trenching 

 being essential. It is better, if possible, to prepare and 

 plant a pwrt ion at a time rather than to plant in a hurry 

 and go over it all again later. If the soil is heavy, add 

 sand and coal-ashes, so that it may be easier to work at 

 all times. If the soil is inclined to be wet, it must be 

 drained to take care of surplus water. A dry soil can 

 be improved by the addition of leaf-mold, and provision 



597. A good mixed border, with many attractive plant forms. 



must be made for watering in drj' seasons. It is not 

 necessary U) lay the pipes deep if there is a natural 

 pitch to the land, the water then being turned off late 

 in the year and the pipes drained for safety. Faucets 

 .■should be so placed that 50 feet of hose will water any 

 [lart that needs it; thus the outlets may be 100 feet 

 apart. 



The grouping of plants in a mixefl border is governed 

 by the width and extent of this border. In large, wide 



spaces, ample groups of each plant are necessary to 

 secure the desired effect and to avoid "spottiness." 

 Large-growing permanent plants, as peonies, boltonias, 

 heleniums, rudbeckias and even silphiums and late- 

 flowering asters shouki be planted at the back ; in front 

 of these, the phlox in separate colors, or at most two 

 colors together that will harmonize, German iris in 

 masses of one or more colors, bleeding heart, campanu- 

 las, Veronica subsessilis, monarda, oriental poppy, col- 

 umbines, pyrethrums, perennial candytuft, and, in front 

 of these, the usual dwarf edging plants, as arabis, 

 alyssum, the Cariiathian harebell, shooting-star, ery- 

 simum. Tunica saxifragn, geuni, Heuchera sanguinea 

 and others. If the border is narrow, individual treat- 

 ment must be followed to secure a greater variety, and 

 it is always permissible to add the old favorite sweet- 

 smelling plants and herbs, such as balm, thyme, lemon 

 verbena, southernwood, rosemary, rue, marjoram, bor- 

 age and fennel, and some sweet geranium. All these 

 give interest when flowers are waning, and call up 

 associations helping to take the memory back to old 

 friendships. 



A border of this kind will need the addition of annuals 

 to take the place of the earlier flowering plants that are 

 past. Seeds of mignonette may be sown in the place 

 where they are to flower; snapdragons may be raised in 

 frames or hotbeds and set out among other plants that 

 are passing; the scarlet salvia may be put where its 

 color will not clash when in flower; gladiolus may be 

 set out in groups of one color; Hyacinthus candicans 

 looks well in fall when planted at the back; in fact, the 

 mixed border of today should contain every desirable 



plant that has either 

 sentiment or blossoms 

 — possibly both — to 

 recommend it. 



Lilies often do well 

 in partially shaded 

 situations in which 

 moisture is sure and 

 leaf - mold has been 

 added. They should 

 never be treated to 

 manure. They are best 

 seen when planted in 

 masses sufficient to 

 make a display in their 

 season. L. auratum 

 never lives long but is 

 good for a year or two; 

 L. speciosum is a better 

 lily to keep; the tiger 

 lily always remains 

 with us as do also L. 

 umbellalum, L. Han- 

 sonii, L. Thwibergi- 

 anum or L. elcgans; and 

 great results are ex- 

 jiected from the new 

 Chinese L. myriophyl- 

 lum andot hers of recent 

 introduction. The 

 flower-stalks of lilies 

 should never be pulled 

 up in fall, but cut off 

 at the ground. It ia 

 a protection to the 

 heart of the bulb to let the stem remain. 



Perhaps the most important detail of the manage- 

 ment of the border is that of protection in winter. The 

 border should be protected and nourished at the same 

 time; this is po.s.sible when a (juantity of well-decayed 

 manure and leaf-mold is available for a top-dressing, 

 preferably after a little frost has penetrated the soil. 

 1'his can be lightly forked into the soil in spring, but a 

 spade should never be used except when making 



