34 BORDER OF MONGOLIAN PLATEAU- k'ALC AN. 



pearance of savage grandeur, are the chief charac- 

 teristics of the mountains, alon^ the axis of which is 

 carried the Great Wall Like many other ranges 

 of Inner Asia, which have a lofty plateau on one 

 side and low plains on the other, this presents no 

 ascent from the side of the plateau. To the very 

 last the traveller makes his way through undulating 

 hills, until a marvellous panorama is suddenly dis- 

 closed to his view. Beneath his feet are rows 

 upon rows of lofty mountains, precipices, chasms, 

 and ravines, intermingled in the wildest confusion ; 

 beyond lie thickly populated valleys, through which 

 glide winding rivers. The contrast between that 

 which has been passed and that which lies before 

 is wonderful. The change of climate is not less 

 remarkable. Hitherto, durino- the whole of our 

 march, frosts were of daily occurrence, sometimes 

 exceeding —34° Fahr., and always accompanied by 

 strong north-west winds without snow. Now, as we 

 descended, the temperature grew warmer at every 

 step, and on arriving at Kalgan the weather was 

 spring-like, although it was yet early in January ; so 

 marked was the change in a distance of about 

 seventeen miles, separating this town from the com- 

 mencement of the descent. The high land has a 

 height of some 5,400 feet, whereas the town of Kal- 

 gan, at the entrance to the plains, is only 2,800 feet 

 above the level of the sea.^ 



This town, called by the Chinese Chang-kia- 

 kau, commands the pass through the Great Wall, 



' Kalgan is derived from the Mongol word Kha/i^ui, i.e. a barrier. 



