78 PILGRIMAGES. 



temples of Mongolia, especially the larger and more, 

 famous, attract wealthy pilgrims from far distances. 



These pilgrimages, however, are, if we may so 

 call them, private enterprises. Lhassa is the sacred 

 city ; hither large caravans of worshippers annually 

 come, and, regardless of the difficulties of the long 

 journey, esteem it a special mark of Divine favour 

 to be allowed to fulfil their religious obligations. 

 The Dungan insurrection put a stop to them for 

 eleven years, but, as soon as the Chinese forces occu- 

 pied Eastern Kan-su, they were renewed. Women 

 sometimes take part in them, but, let it be said to 

 their credit, are not such hypocrites as the men. 

 This may be from the fact that all domestic work is 

 done by them, and they have less time -to spare for 

 religion. The inhabitants of the border-land are 

 also far less devout than those in the heart of the 

 country. 



The clergy, or so-called lamas, ^ are very nume- 

 rous, and comprise a third, if not more, of the 

 male population, who are thereby relieved from the 

 payment of all taxes.^ It is not difficult to become a 

 lama. Parents must voluntarily dedicate their son 

 to this profession while he is an infant, shave his 

 head, and dress him in a red or yellow robe. This 

 is an external mark of the future vocation of the 



' Properly speaking, the word ' lama ' is only applied by Mongols to 

 their superior clergy ; an ordinary member of that profession is called 

 Huvarak. But the former name is much more generally used than 

 the latter. 



^ Lamas holding important posts at the temples are entirely freed 

 from imposts ; those non-officiating arc paid for by their families. 



