90 PEKING, FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 



CHAPTER III. 



THE SOUTH-EASTERN BORDER OF THE MONGOLIAN 



PLATEAU. 



Peking — First Impressions — The Streets and Walls — European Esta- 

 blishments — Preparations for the Journey — Fire-arms and Outfit — 

 Insufficiency of Funds and its Consequence — Financial Arrange- 

 ments — Chinese Currency — Inconveniences of the Copper Cur- 

 rency — Passport — Departure from Peking — Preliminary Tour to 

 the North^ — Ku-pe-kau Gate in Wall — Migration of Wild-fowl — 

 Road to Dolon-nor — Wood on the Way — Jehol — Fauna of the 

 Route — Goitre — Khingan Range — Dolon-nor — Idol Foundry — 

 Shandu River — Tsagan Balgas— Sandhills called Giichin-gurbu 

 or ' the 33 ' — A Steppe-fire on the Dalai-nor — The Lake Dalai — 

 Birds on the Lake — Mocking-bird — Surveying Difficulties — Mode 

 of Surveying — Suspicions of the Natives — The Route plotted 

 daily — Road back to Kalgan — Steppe Horses — Imperial Pasture 

 Lands — Chmate of South-Eastern Mongolia — The two-humped 

 Camel — Its habits, uses, &c. — Arrival at Kalgan. 



Peking, or, as the Chinese call, it, Pch-king} was the 

 starting point of our expedition. Here we met with 

 the most cordial hospitality from our countrymen, 

 the members of the diplomatic and clerical missions, 

 and here we abode nearly two months making pre- 

 parations for the journey. My acquaintance with 

 the city is very superficial. Its great extent and out- 

 landish appearance to European eyes, the strange 

 manners of the Chinese, and, lastly, ignorance of 

 the language, prevented me from acquainting my- 

 self in detail with all its marvels. I may candidly 



' Pc/t-king, i.e. 'northern capital.' 



