I о ADVANTAGE OF BEING ARMED. 



the teeth ; and if in a moment of unusual audacity 

 they had ventured on so rash a proceeding, our guns 

 and revolvers would have taught them a good 

 lesson. On the other hand, when travelling through 

 populous districts, we were constantly exposed to all 

 kinds of insults, against which there was no possible 

 defence. Although our Peking Foreign Office pass- 

 port set forth that in case of need help should be 

 given us, this was a mere formula, and was of no 

 practical advantage ; we really experienced nothing 

 but hostility from the Chinese, and their local au- 

 thorities were always delighted at any inconvenience 

 and annoyance that befell us. Our visits to the 

 towns of Bautu and Ding-hu were marked by such 

 scenes as could never have occurred had the Chi- 

 nese functionaries been better disposed towards us. 

 In proof of this assertion I will presently relate an 

 accident which befell us in the earlier part of De- 

 cember. But now let us return to our narrative. 



The valley of the left bank of the Hoang-ho at 

 its northern bend presents a grassy aspect like that 

 of the right bank. The clayey soil is covered with 

 thick clumps of the high dirisun grass ; beside the 

 river there is a growth of bushes ; whilst nearer the 

 mountains the surface of the plain becomes shingly. 

 The absolute height of this country, like Ordos, does 

 not exceed 3,500 feet. The Chinese population is 

 dense, particularly nearer the river, while at the foot 

 of the mountains are the habitations of Mongols who 

 have fled hither from the uplands and from Ordos. 

 Chinese soldiery are quartered in the villages as a 



к 



