THE HIGHLANDS. 59 



CHAPTER III. 



THE PROVINCE OF KAN-SU.^ 



First sight of Kan-su — Marginal range — Ta-yi-gu — Sung-shan — 

 Abundance of water — Ruined villages — A false alarm — Harsh 

 treatment of prisoner — Gold washings — Profusion of vegetation — 

 Another adventure — Randzemba and the breech-loaders — Mystery 

 explained — Temple of Chertinton ; its superior or abbot — We 

 leave our camels and horses — The Rangtu-gol — Cultivated and 

 thickly-populated plain — The Taldi — The temple of Chobsen ; 

 its images and idols ; its militia garrison — Arrival at Chobsen — 

 Drying the collections — Stagnation of trade — Start for the moun- 

 tains — Description of the mountains of Kan-su — Northern and 

 Southern chains — Snowy peaks — ' Aiimch ' the sacred mountains — 

 Geology — Minerals — Climate — Flora: trees, bushes, &.c. — The 

 Rhubarb plant {Rliciim pabuatum) — Method of obtaining and pre- 

 serving it — Artificial cultivation — Rhododendrons — Characteristic 

 plants of Kan-su — Luxuriant meadow-land — Fauna of Kan-su — 

 Mammals — Birds ; their classification — Birds of alpine zone — 

 Absence of water-fowl — Excessive humidity — Thunderstorms — 

 Sodi-Soruksum ; splendid view — Mount Gadjur ; its sacred lake 

 — Terror of natives — Guides refuse to proceed — Autumn — Camels 

 suffer — Chobsen besieged — Perilous situation — Prepare for de- 

 fence — Night-watch — Hire guides to Koko-nor — Consult auguries 

 — Halt — Supplies — Departure — A critical moment — ^Appearance 

 of Dungans — Mur-zasak — Tatung-gol — Koko-nor at last. 



We left Ta-jing on the morning of June 20, and the 

 same day ascended the mountains of Kan-su, where 

 we suddenly found ourselves in a new climate sur- 

 rounded by a new nature. On first entering this 

 region we were impressed with its lofty elevation 

 and the grand mountains rising to the limits of 



' The name of Kan-su is derived from two of its towns — Kan-chau 

 and Suh-chau. Yule's ' Marco Polo,' new ed. vol. i. p. 222. — M. 



