1 84 PILGRIMAGES TO LHASSA. 



warm. This is the season selected by the caravans 

 for their pilgrimages to Lhassa.^ The rendezvous 

 is Lake Koko-nor, where the camels, which have 

 already accomplished a long journey, are fed up in 

 preparation for the still longer and more arduous 

 march before them. Here too the pilgrims are joined 

 by Mongols of the vicinity, mounted some on yaks 

 and some on camels. The latter travel more rapidly, 

 averaging twenty miles a day,^ and accomplish the 

 entire distance of 1,000 miles from Tonkir to Lhassa 

 in two months, while the progress on yaks is much 

 slower, occupying double the time. 



There is no regular road anywhere in the 

 Tibetan deserts, nothing but the tracks of wild 

 animals in all directions. The caravans take a 

 straight course, guiding their march by the salient 

 features of the country. The route is as follows : 

 from Tonkir along the northern shore of Koko-nor, 

 and across Tsaidam, to the Burkhan range, a journey 

 of fifteen or sixteen days ; to the Murui-ussu, ten 

 days ; ascending the course of this river, ten days 

 more ; across the Tang-la range to the Tibetan 

 village of Napchu, five days ; and thence to Lhassa, 

 twelve days. The camels are usually left behind at 

 Napchu, on account of the steepness of the moun- 

 tains, and the journey is continued on yaks. The 

 Mongols, however, assured us that it was possible to 



> The Dungan insurrection put a stop to the pilgrimages from 

 Northern Mongolia for eleven years, during which time caravans pro- 

 ceeded only from Koko-nor and Tsaidam, and this not every year. 



- There are only two halting-places ; one in Tsaidam at the foot of 

 the Burkhan Buddha, and the other on the bank of the Murui-ussu. 



