MORNING CLOUDS. 45 



times the peak was entirely hidden from tneir eyes by 

 the fog, at other times it broke upon them in terrific 

 proximity ; and, like an enormous pyramid, threw its 

 shadow over the clouds rolling beneath their feet. 



About three in the morninsr, bv the sombrous light of 

 a few fir torches, they started on their journey to the 

 summit of the Sugar-loaf. They scaled the volcano on. 

 the northeast side, where the declivities were extremely 

 steep ; and after two hours' toil reached a small plain, 

 which, on account of its elevated position, bore the name 

 of Alta Yista. This was the station of the neveros, those 

 natives whose occupation it was to collect ice and snow, 

 which they sold in the neighbouring towns. Their mules, 

 better practised in climbing mountains than those hired 

 by travellers, reach Alta Vista, and the neveros are 

 obliged to transport the snow to that place on their 

 backs. Above this point commenced the Malpays, a 

 term by which is designated here, as well as in every 

 other country subject to volcanoes, a ground destitute of 

 vegetable mould, and covered with fragments of lava. 



Day was beginning to dawn when the travellers left 

 the ice-cavern. They observed, during the twilight, a 

 phenomenon which is not unusual on high mountains, 

 but which the position of the volcano they were scaling 

 rendered very striking. A layer of white and fleecy 

 clouds concealed from them the sight of the ocean, and 

 the lower region of the island. This layer did not ap- 

 pear above five thousand feet high ; the clouds were so 

 uniformly spread, and kept so perfect a level, that they 

 wore the appearance of a vast plain covered with snow. 

 The colossal pyramid of the peak, the volcanic summits 

 of Lancerota, of Forteventura, and the isle of Palma, 



