THE HARVEST OF EGGS. 133 



relating a fact of which only a white man could be ig- 

 norant, that "at the period of the great waters, their 

 fathers went to that height in boats." 



A fresh breeze carrying the travellers towards the 

 Boca de la Tortuga they landed at an island in the middle 

 of the river. This island was celebrated for the turtle- 

 fishery, or, as it was called there, "the harvest of eggs," 

 that took place annually. Here the travellers found an 

 assemblage of Indians, encamped under huts made of 

 palm-leaves. This encampment contained more than 

 three hundred persons. Accustomed, since they had 

 left San Fernando de Apure, to see only desert shores 

 they were singularly struck by the bustle that prevailed 

 here. They found, besides the Guamos and the Ottomacs 

 of Uruana, who were both considered as savage races, 

 Caribs, and other Indians of the Lower Orinoco. Every 

 tribe was separately encamped, and was distinguished by 

 the pigments with which their skins were painted. Some 

 white men were seen amidst this tumultuous assemblage, 

 chiefly pulperos, or little traders of Angostura, who had 

 come up the river to purchase turtle-oil from the natives. 

 The missionary of Uruana, a native of Alcala, came to 

 meet Humboldt and Bonpland, and he was extremely 

 astonished at seeing them. After having admired their 

 instruments, he gave them an exaggerated picture of the 

 sufferings to which they would be necessarily exposed in 

 ascending the Orinoco beyond the cataracts. The object 

 of their journey appeared to him very mysterious. "How 

 is it possible to believe," said he, "that you have left 

 your country, to come and be devoured by mosquitos on 

 this river, and to measure lands that are not your own?" 

 They were happily furnished with recommendations from 



