60 ALEPPO TO DEIR-EL-ZOIi. 



stations at intervals of from twenty to thirty miles 

 being the only form of permanent habitation, if I 

 except the few small houses which have grown up 

 round the largest of them — Sabkah. The places of 

 greatest historical interest are Phunsah and Rakka, 

 the latter on the left bank close to the junction of the 

 Belik and the Euphrates. At the former place the 

 river was forded by the army of Cyrus the younger, 

 by Darius, both before and after Issus, and by 

 Alexander in pursuit, while Thapsacus, which stood 

 on or near the present site, has been identified with 

 Tiphsah, the eastern boundary of King Solomon's 

 dominion. The latter, the site of Nicephorium, is 

 still a fair-sized place, and extensive ruins are visible 

 around it. 



On January 22 I reached Deir, which is described as 

 " a considerable place in the desert." I found it a 

 small town with two fair khans, some fairly good 

 houses, and a long central street and bazaar. An 

 officer of rank and 500 men are quartered here, in 

 addition to the usual police, and on arrival I left a 

 letter of introduction on him, given me by Ali Pasha 

 at Aleppo. Result : in the midst of general untidiness 

 consequent on the rearrangement of baggage in the 

 bare room of the khan, enter a smart uniformed 

 individual, evidently of high rank, to the discomfiture 

 of the Englishman in shirt-sleeves, knickerbockers, and 

 shooting-boots ! The Colonel, however, — for it was no 

 other, — was affability itself, assured me that there was 

 no occasion for formality, and intimated that he had 

 merely come to inform me that, as I intended crossing 

 the desert to Mossul, an escort would be necessary, and 

 that, in compliance with the wish of his superior at 

 Aleppo, he would supply me with the men the follow- 

 " How many men did he consider 



