THE DESERT. 



CHAPTER VI. 



THE DESERT. 



Crossing the Euphrates — The monotonous desolation of the country — A 

 surprise— A band of Arab marauders — A peaceful conclusion — Arab 

 propensities — The river Gozan of the Old Testament — Crossing the 

 Khabur river— The Mesopotamian steppe— A well in the desert — 

 Reach the Jebel Sinjar— The Yezidis— A punitive expedition— An 

 uncomfortable night — The country between Jebel Sinjar and the 

 Tigris— The aspect of Mesopotamia in spring and in summer— De- 

 scription by Sir Henry Layard. 



From Deir the direct road to Baghdad continues down 

 the right bank of the Euphrates by Hit, but to go to 

 Mossul the river must now be crossed and a north- 

 easterly direction taken across the desert plains of 

 Mesopotamia. After crossing on the morning of the 

 24th, a lengthy proceeding effected by means of a 

 cumbrous ferry propelled by a vociferous gang of pre- 

 historic looking Arabs armed with a motley collection 

 of oars and punt-poles, we travelled over a country 

 devoid even of the attraction hitherto afforded by the 

 narrow ribbon of the jungle - covered banks of the 

 Euphrates. It is a country in which one may ride on 

 and on for hours at a time without so much as seeing 

 a human being or any sign of human habitation, such 

 life as there is, in the shape of Arab encampments, 

 clinging closely to the banks of the Khabur river, which 

 flows sluggishly south to mingle its waters with those 



