114 BAGHDAD TO KERMANSHAH. 



all the more when he informed my mterpreter con- 

 fidentially that he found the position — i.e., seated on 

 a chair — insufferably uncomfortable. After imbibing 

 innumerable cups of tea and coffee between 6 p.m. and 

 8 P.M., a cloth was laid, and large flat slabs of bread 

 spread all round, a space being left in the centre for 

 dishes. Bowls of pilao and dishes of mutton were then 

 placed in the middle, and when we had each been given 

 a plate, spatchcocked fowls were brought in on skewers, 

 pulled off, and placed on the table in front of us. 

 Knives and forks were conspicuous by their absence, 

 but at the invitation of our host to set to, a dozen 

 hands were plunged into the rice — rather a greasy 

 performance, since it was cooked in butter — and dis- 

 membered the fowls which lay scattered about on the 

 table. We went ahead merrily, stuffing handfuls of 

 meat and rice into our mouths until hunger was 

 appeased and thirst satisfied with the goats' milk 

 which formed the staple drink, when a servant came 

 round and poured water over our hands from a brazen 

 ewer. That brought the meal to an end. Simple but 

 effective was my reflection after it was finished. 

 Personally I felt that I was clumsy, from being un- 

 used to eating everything with my fingers, I suppose ; 

 but for those accustomed to it, it appears possible to 

 dispose of a maximum of food in a minimum of time — 

 if I may judge by the performances of my fellow-guests, 

 at least ! 



After leaving Kasr - i - Shirin the track, which is 

 abominably stony, passes through the filthy little 

 villag-e of Sar - i - Pul, identified with the Halah of 

 2 Kings xvii. 6, up a broad valley for a short distance, 

 through a natural cleft in an abrupt limestone ridge, 

 said to contain the tomb of David, and along another 

 valley, at the extremity of which rise the perpendicular 



