INTERVIEW WITH THE SHAH. 133 



modern Persian tile-work, but the care with which 

 they are closed and barred at night strikes one as 

 being a wholly unnecessary precaution, since there is 

 absolutely nothing to prevent any one from walking 

 across the dry ditch and mud walls — ramparts would 

 be a more correct designation — should he feel so in- 

 clined ; indeed, I am assured that in places there is no 

 difficulty in crossing them on horseback. 



Those in high places seemed generally exhausted — 

 especially the Treasury — after the trip to Europe, and 

 the fact that I arrived at the beginning of the Ashura, 

 the first ten days of religious mourning of the Mohar- 

 rem, was responsible for the unwonted quiet which 

 brooded over the society of the capital. Under these 

 circumstances I appreciated all the more the kindness 

 which prompted both the Shah and the prime minister 

 to do me the honour of inviting me to an interview. 

 The appearance of Mozuffer a Din Shah is now familiar 

 to the English public. On the occasion of my visit he 

 wore a plain dark uniform with jewelled sword, and 

 the national crest in diamonds on the ordinary black 

 sheepskin kolah, and spoke at first in Persian through 

 an interpreter and then in French when he broached 

 the congenial topic of sport. As is his custom, he 

 received me standing, in the centre of a small room 

 profusely ornamented with the cut-mirror work known 

 as aineli kari, at one end of which stands the cele- 

 brated jewel globe,^ while a few Court officials stood 

 grouped at a short distance. 



On another occasion I was shown the principal halls 

 and chambers of the palace, which contain so extra- 



1 See Lord Cnrzon's Persia, vol. i. p. 314: "Upon a separate stand 

 appears the globe of jewels, which was constructed out of his loose stones 

 by the reigning Shah (Nasr-ed-Din) at a cost (exclusive of the gems pro- 

 vided by himself) of £320,000. The alleged value, with the stones (75 lb. 

 of pure gold, and 51,366 gems, weighing 3656-4 grammes), is £947,000." 



