A WEIRD CEREMONY. 135 



their two prophets, Hassan and Hussein, their grief 

 culminates in the ceremony of the katl or murder. A 

 large number of people of the lower classes robe them- 

 selves in white, and then, linked arm in arm and 

 carrying huge knives, parade the streets calling on 

 the names of their prophets, while, urged on by the 

 stirring strains of bands of music, they cut and gash 

 themselves horribly about the head and face. I watched 

 these weird processions for long from a house-roof, 

 while the bands played and the cry "Hassan ! Hussein ! " 

 rent the air, and the blood flowed till the white robes 

 of the maddened fanatics were dyed crimson from 

 head to foot. 



It was a nauseating scene in spite of its novelty, 

 and aflbrded a graphic illustration of the heights to 

 which fanaticism may rise, recalling inevitably the 

 old-world custom of the prophets of Baal, who " cried 

 aloud, and cut themselves, after their manner, with 

 knives and lancets, till the blood gushed out upon 

 them." 1 



Mourning is also observed by the performance of 

 religious plays known as tazziehs, to one of which I 

 was invited. I found it a little difiicult to see, as I 

 was placed behind a thick perforated curtain, on account, 

 I believe, of the presence of the royal hareem. The 

 play must have been of a very touching nature, judging 

 from the loud wailing and moaning to which the 

 onlookers gave vent ; but the pathos was quite spoilt 

 for me when the band suddenly broke into the familiar 

 strains of the " Sourir d'Avril ! " This, I imagine, was 

 the result of the recent trip to Europe, and I have no 

 doubt it was considered to be an excellent funeral 

 march ! 



Beyond the city walls the country is bare, brown, 



^ 1 Kings xviii. 28. 



