218 KULJA. 



but in parts of Siberia as well, is kumiss or mare's milk, 

 which is supposed to be extremely nourishing and in- 

 vigorating, and is considered very good, though I am 

 bound to say that, speaking from personal experience, I 

 should think that the taste, as far as Europeans are 

 concerned, must be an acquired one. Another beverage 

 is made by distilling milk, the result being a colourless 

 liquid of no very pronounced or inviting flavour. 



The Kirgiz women were bright and hospitable, and, 

 though Mohammedans, did not cover the face in the 

 presence of a stranger, but, on the contrary, welcomed 

 me and entertained me hospitably. Primogeniture 

 appears to be unknown, but a system of tenure, some- 

 what similar to that known as borough- English, is in 

 vogue, the youngest son remaining at home, and at his 

 father's death inheriting his fortune. 



To return to the town of Kulja itself. The race 

 variety here is considerable. You may in the course of 

 a single morning see Kalmuks and Kirgiz come in to 

 make purchases in the bazaar ; Russians on official 

 duty, Sarts and Tartar merchants in pursuit of trade, 

 Chinese Mohammedans, and, lastly, the true Chinese, 

 living together in one quarter of the town. Here you 

 may stroll through the Chinese bazaar and see the 

 Chinaman as he is. Little groups of pig-tailed in- 

 dividuals are loitering about, eating odd messes at the 

 cooking shops with still odder-looking chop-sticks, and 

 drinking everlasting cups of tea. Huge streamers 

 covered with strange hieroglyphics hanging in front of 

 the shops tell of the goods to be obtained within — 

 birds' nests and jelly-fish, and a hundred other delicacies 

 dear to the Celestial soul ; trinkets and furs, and the 

 huge spectacles of dark -coloured crystal affected by the 

 Chinaman, together with a heterogeneous collection of 

 Chinese manufactured goods. 



