BUENAVENTURA TO CALI 11 



plaza. Churches are numerous, of massive construction, 

 and built in Spanish style. The bells, of which there are 

 many, are suspended in open niches in the towers, covered 

 with verdigris, and keep up an almost continuous clanging. 



The streets are narrow and crooked. A stream of water 

 flows through the centre of some of them; this serves both 

 puiposes — as a kind of sewage system and also to supply 

 water for various needs, although there is a system of piping 

 in some of the houses, and fountains on a few street corners 

 supply drinking-water to those who care to fetch it. I 

 have seen, on several occasions, children attempting to 

 bathe in the little stream; a short distance below, ducks 

 were swimming in the water; then a person stepping from 

 one of the doorways threw a pailful of garbage into it; 

 finally, some one stepped out and unconcernedly dipped up 

 a pitcherful of the water and took it indoors. 



It is quite unusual to see any of the women of the upper 

 class on the streets during the daytime, except on special 

 occasions, or while they are on their way to and from church. 

 They remain secluded in their homes, safe from the gaze 

 of vulgar eyes. Embroidering and music are the chief diver- 

 sions, and a large number of them are really very accom- 

 plished in both lines. It w r as remarkable to notice how many 

 pianos there were, when we consider that each instrument 

 had to be brought over the Andes slung on poles and carried 

 by mules. 



Practically all work is performed by people of the lower 

 class. They toil day and night and, in most instances, for 

 very little remuneration. One may see them engaged in 

 various occupations at all hours of the day ; but during the 

 early hours of the morning, long files wend their way down 

 the streets with the public market-place as the point of 

 focus. The huge brick structure is a busy place. It re- 

 minds one of an ants' nest with its incoming and departing 

 swarms. Inside the building are rows and heaps of fruit, 

 vegetables, meat, bread, and many other articles. A motley 

 crowd of women fills the place to overflowing; each carries 



