CHAPTER III 



THE ANDES SOUTHWEST OF POPAYAN; CRUISE OF 



THE CALDAS 



After our return to Popayan we spent a few days wrap- 

 ping and packing the large collection of birds and mammals 

 that had been secured on the Cerro Munchique; and, dur- 

 ing the odd moments when this work became arduous, we 

 sought information about the mountains south of the place 

 we had just visited. Eventually our quest took us to the 

 governor's palace, where we had the good fortune to meet 

 the executive of the province of Cauca, Doctor Alfredo 

 Garces. 



The first thing that attracted our attention was a framed 

 poem hanging above his desk; the title pf it was "Death to 

 Foreigners"; but the kindly and sympathetic governor soon 

 dispelled any doubts we may have harbored as to his feel- 

 ings. He was a man of great refinement and education, 

 and had travelled extensively in the United States. Our 

 mission interested him greatly. He brought out maps and 

 charts, and then, with the aid of a pair of powerful field- 

 glasses, showed us the places he had pointed out on the 

 drawings. 



Doctor Garces proved to be one of our best and most 

 highly valued friends, despite the rather alarming notice 

 on his office wall. He called on us at the inn several times 

 each day, and admired the birds and mammals we had 

 collected. Our rooms were always in the state of greatest 

 upheaval with packing-cases, equipment, provisions, and a 

 hundred other things occupying each available place; but 

 the governor took it all as a matter of course, enjoyed delv- 

 ing among our possessions in search of things unknown to 



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