THE ANDES SOUTHWEST OF POPAYAN 41 



had to be content with a smaller craft, however, as there 

 was not sufficient water to float the Sucre over the numer- 

 ous sand-bars. 



The Caldas is a little steel launch of not over fifty feet 

 from stem to stern, with a beam of fifteen feet and drawing 

 eighteen inches of water. When the river is full the Caldas 

 is used to carry freight only, for which puipose she doubt- 

 less serves admirably: but at other times she assumes the 

 double responsibility of carrying both cargo and passen- 

 gers. Of course there is the alternative of going overland; 

 but the trip takes twice as long, and after having spent 

 some time on the muddy trails, the novelty of a river trip 

 is likely to make a strong appeal, whatever the odds. 



On the announced date of sailing thirty-seven individ- 

 uals of all sizes, ages, and shades of color gathered on the 

 river's bank, each impatient to be the first to cross the 

 narrow 7 plank and board the small craft. There also waited 

 a huge mound of boxes, bags, bales of hides, and other 

 freight; this was loaded first and piled in the front and 

 rear. The engine occupied the centre of the boat, as did 

 the kitchen. When the people were finally permitted to 

 go aboard, there was a wild scramble to the top of the heap 

 of boxes and bundles. To sit up straight under the sheet- 

 iron roof was impossible; fortunately the sun shone inter- 

 mittently only or we should have been suffocated. 



From the very beginning there was enough of interest to 

 keep one's nerves tensed to a high pitch. The crumbling 

 banks, great chunks of which settled gently into the water 

 as the waves, caused by the launch's propeller, washed 

 away the last bit of restraining sand; the numbers of bam- 

 boo rafts laden with bananas, plantains, and other tropical 

 fruits on their way to the port of Guanchito; the dark- 

 skinned fishermen who cast their nets into eddies and quiet 

 pools, and the washwomen, each smoking an enormous 

 black cigar and beating the clothes upon stones until one 

 expected to see them fly into shreds, were very interesting. 

 There were also hundreds of cormorants and anhingas that 



