74 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



from Buenaventura. When they have accumulated a 

 small quantity of the fine, sparkling flakes they embark in 

 their canoes and make their way to the seaport in three 

 days, there to do their trading. It was impossible to hire 

 them for any kind of work; one woman had flour, but could 

 not bake bread for lack of fire-wood, because no one would 

 carry it from the forest one hundred yards away. Indians 

 came to the village daily. They wore many ornaments of 

 beaten silver about their necks and wrists; some of them 

 also had earrings made of the same metal, the size of door- 

 knobs; they were so heavy that a framework of sticks 

 placed at the back of the head had to be used to support 

 their weight. I was greatly amused by the actions of one 

 stalwart young brave who, with his wife and baby, came 

 to the settlement each day. While in town, where he 

 might be observed, he paid no attention whatever to his 

 family; he walked several paces in front of the woman, 

 who, of course, carried the baby, and not once even conde- 

 scended to glance in their direction. However, when they 

 reached the river-bank or some other secluded spot where 

 he was safe from prying eyes, he snatched the infant from 

 the mother's arms, kissed it, tossed it into the air and acted 

 exactly like any other fond parent. If any one approached, 

 he hastily returned it to his wife and resumed his taciturn 

 expression. 



At times a small steamer, the Fluvial, from Buenaven- 

 tura, visits the settlements on the lower San Juan. We 

 waited in vain ten days for her appearance. However, a 

 launch belonging to a miner, a Mr. Stapleton, chanced to 

 pass, and the owner kindly offered to take us to the coast. 



The San Juan grows constantly wider. Its banks are 

 dotted with the conical huts of Indians; the floors are 

 always raised on poles, high above the ground, to escape 

 the floods and insects. 



As we sped down the river many of the naked, painted 

 savages rushed out in their canoes, paddling and yelling 

 like demons in attempts to overtake the launch. I do not 



