96 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



months, and their number was augmented by men from 

 Guadaloupe who were eager to have a hand in the under- 

 taking. Every one walked, the peons carrying the packs; 

 but mules were driven ahead to test the trail, and also for 

 use after we reached the level low country. 



The heavy subtropical forest that begins at La Danta 

 continues on to the top of the range, and down the other 

 side in an unbroken mass of solid, living green. There were 

 practically no signs of life, but the wind blew less violently 

 and the cold was less intense and not so penetrating as at 

 Andalucia. 



The slope is less abrupt than on the western side. On 

 the second night a palm-leaf lean-to called El Paraiso was 

 reached. The elevation was two thousand four hundred 

 and twenty-five feet. A number of bedraggled and dis- 

 contented laborers had erected this shelter and said they 

 would stay there without doing another stroke of work 

 until their pay, several months overdue, should arrive. 

 Perhaps they are still camping there, unless the prospect of 

 starving to death forced them to move, as we had heard 

 several times that the foremen were in the habit of drawing 

 the money for all the men under them, and then decamp- 

 ing for parts unknown. 



Beyond "the paradise" the way lay through a region 

 that might well be called El Infierno. There was an un- 

 broken succession of pools and sinks so that we struggled 

 onward hour after hour through water and thin mud sev- 

 eral feet deep. Contrary to our expectations, we had been 

 able to use the mules for very light packs on parts of the 

 previous day's journey; but now they floundered and caused 

 so much trouble that we heartily regretted not having left 

 them behind. 



On the following days the country was dotted with steep, 

 rocky foot-hills, alternated with deep, muddy depressions. 

 Rain fell almost continuously, but it served to keep away 

 troublesome insects. The peons were cheerful withal and 

 seemed to enjoy the experience in spite of the hard work. 



