128 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



and had snug lairs in dense clumps of bushes which always 

 commanded a view of the surrounding country. We saw 

 no cougars or bears although we found the remains of several 

 deer which had apparently been killed by these animals. 



Birds were extremely scarce and, strange to relate, ex- 

 ceedingly wary. Collecting them was heart-breaking work; 

 the slopes are so steep, that it was impossible to walk many 

 yards without becoming utterly exhausted, and tramping 

 through the high, wet grass chilled the lower extremities 

 to numbness. The slaty finch (Phrygilus) so common at 

 Santa Isabel, and two species of honey-creepers (Diglossa) 

 were by far the most common; followed by a queer, wren- 

 like little bird (Scytalopus) called tapacola, which lives 

 among the densest ferns and mosses; it was seldom seen, 

 but a cheery whistle apprised us constantly of its presence. 

 There was also a gorgeous humming-bird, the whole body 

 being of the most resplendent, iridescent deep rose and 

 green colors; we located a nest of this species, a tiny moss 

 cup scarcely an inch across, suspended from a creeper dan- 

 gling beneath a bower of protecting leaves; it held two 

 minute eggs, so fragile that the mere touch of a finger would 

 crush them. 



One day we ascended the highest peak in order to ob- 

 tain a good view of the surrounding country. The Para- 

 millo rises like a rocky island, out of an ocean of forest. 

 Glouds fill the depressions between the neighboring peaks, 

 and surging, tumbling banks of white roll up the slopes 

 or ascend in columns to spread out in funnel-shaped masses 

 in the higher altitudes and become dissipated by the sun. 

 To the southward rises the lofty Paramo of Frontino, many 

 miles distant, the flat top dimly outlined in a grayish haze. 



Toward the close of the tenth day, we heard loud calls 

 and, soon after, our faithful porters dashed into camp. We 

 were astonished at their number for, according to our agree- 

 ment, only the original number was to return, there being 

 no need for the trail-cutters; however, several additional 

 men had arrived. Upon reaching the Paramillo, we had 



