ASCENT OF THE PARAMILLO 129 



jestingly remarked that we should ascend the highest peak 

 because we could perhaps see New York from the top; the 

 extra men heard of this, and seriously explained that they 

 had come to make the ascent in order to get a view 

 of "Rome where the Holy Father lives!" 



Early the next morning, we broke camp and started back. 

 The homeward trip was much easier, for the packs were 

 lighter, and the greater part of the distance was down- 

 hill. After two days we emerged from the lower edge of 

 the forest, and there was Don Julian and a delegation of 

 natives waiting to convoy us back to Peque and welcome 

 us home. 



Don Julian provided horses for our return to Buriticd. 

 They were unquestionably the poorest animals I had ever 

 seen, and I disliked greatly to use them; but as no others 

 were to be had it was a case of either taking the ones avail- 

 able or remaining in Peque for an indefinite period. How- 

 ever, they arrived safely in Buritica after two days' time, 

 and having secured a new pack-train we started northwest- 

 ward toward Atrato drainage. 



Leaving the little town and the semiarid country sur- 

 rounding it, we proceeded straight to the top of a ridge 

 eight thousand feet high, where a narrow strip of forest 

 grew; and then descended on the other side into the valley 

 of the Rio Canasgordas. At this point the stream is a 

 mere rivulet, but it widens rapidly and the fertile banks 

 are planted in sugar-cane, maize, and bananas. Huts 

 built of mud and grass, half concealed by orange-trees dot 

 the narrow valley; near them half-naked, dark-skinned 

 children, pigs, and chickens ran about in a care-free man- 

 ner or stared at us as we passed. 



Lower down the river is flanked bv wide belts of tall 

 bamboo. Birds were not particularly abundant, but occa- 

 sionally we caught sight of a yellow-rumped tanager as the 

 bird darted through the foliage; or heard the familiar kis- 

 ka-dee of a tyrant-bird perched on some high branch to 

 sing, and to wait for insect victims to come within range of 



