FIFTEEN HUNDRED MILES ON THE ORINOCO 145 



of fresh-water porpoises jumped and raced around the 

 boat. 



On the days that followed, the wind either died down 

 entirely or blew with terrific violence, so that slow progress 

 was made. The chubascos, or squalls, not uncommon on 

 tropical rivers, come up suddenly and without warning; 

 a faint, funnel-shaped mass appears on the horizon, fol- 

 lowed by a low bank of black clouds, and fitful little sand- 

 spouts that spring into existence on the vast playas. There 

 is never time to seek the leeward banks, and not a minute 

 is lost in lowering sails and placing every available object 

 below to prevent its being washed overboard. While Cap- 

 tain Solano shouted hoarse orders and the crew worked 

 like mad (the only time they really did work), we donned 

 our oilskins and awaited the coming of the storm. To go 

 down into the hatch was impossible, both on account of 

 the lack of space and the stifling heat. The wait was never 

 very long; with a roar the hurricane burst upon the quiet 

 river, and in a few minutes everything was obliterated in 

 the dense fog and wall of falling water. The wind tore 

 through the rigging with agonized wails, and angry white- 

 capped waves sprang suddenly into existence, sweeping 

 over the boat and dashing it about like a cork in a mill- 

 race. There was nothing to be done but w r ait until the storm 

 subsided and hope that no obstructing boulder, or the bank, 

 would put an end to the madly careening craft in the semi- 

 darkness. This lasted from fifteen minutes to an hour; 

 then the wind died down, the rain ceased, and the fog lifted. 

 A changed river presented itself. Monstrous waves, capped 

 with foam, dashed and tore at the high, crumbling banks, 

 undermining them so that large sections tumbled into the 

 water, carrying with them tall trees and massed vegetation. 

 The agitated surface w r as littered with debris which bore 

 good evidence of the violence of the storm. 



After this there followed several days of calm; there was 

 not enough wind to fill the sails, and all the "whistling for 

 a breeze" of the sailors did exactly as much good as one 



