148 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



reason the island has been named Playa de Manteca, mean- 

 ing in this case land of plenty. 



The next settlement is called Urbana, and is on the south 

 bank of the river, almost opposite the mouth of the Arauca. 

 It consists of about a score of hovels. The Arauca is a 

 river of considerable size, and is said to be bordered by vast 

 marshes and swamps, the home of countless egrets and other 

 water-birds. Hunting-parties ascend during the nesting-sea- 

 son and kill great numbers of the birds; the plumes are taken 

 to Ciudad Bolivar and disposed of to the export dealers. 



Leaving Urbana on the 29th, we entered one of the most 

 difficult stretches of the river to navigate. The fish-hook 

 bend of the Orinoco turns southward, and the eastern bank 

 is dotted with a range of low granite hills which are, in 

 fact, a chain of giant, blackened, dome-shaped boulders. 

 The wind from the east, roaring through each cleft and 

 opening, strikes the river from several directions and with 

 cyclonic violence. One moment there is scarcely enough 

 to make headway against the current; the next a gust strikes 

 the sails and sends the ship wallowing on her beam until 

 the boom drags in the water and it is an even bet if she will 

 gradually right herself or go over. At such times of peril 

 as well as on starting each morning it is the custom of the 

 sailors to pray. Of course they were all Catholics. The 

 captain or whoever steers said, u Vamos con Dios" (let us 

 go with God), and the others answered in chorus: " Y con 

 la Virgen" (and with the Virgin). Occasionally the person 

 whose duty it was to lead was so occupied rolling a cigarette 

 or slapping at flies that he neglected his duty; then some 

 one was sure to remind him with a sarcastic "Aha! Hoy 

 vamos como los Protestantes" (Aha! To-day we are start- 

 ing like the Protestants). It often happened that the crew 

 was remiss. The captain repeated his lead several times 

 without being heard; finally, his patience exhausted, he 

 shouted at the top of his voice, " Vamos con Dios, caramba," 

 and the crew immediately yelled back at the top of their 

 voices: "Y con la Virgen, caramba." 



