FIFTEEN HUNDRED MILES ON THE ORINOCO 153 



long, known as the rapids of Atures. We sent a man over- 

 land to Zamuro for Sifalca, which is a canoe with the sides 

 heightened with boards; and while our luggage was being 

 rowed up the swift stream, we walked near the bank. 



The aneroid, read at water-level, gave an elevation of 

 three hundred and fifty feet; perhaps this is somewhat too 

 high. Between Vagre and Zamuro a row of rounded, black 

 rocks rise to a height of two hundred and fifty feet above 

 the river, on the eastern side. Many boulders of enormous 

 proportions lie sprinkled about in the most irregular manner, 

 as far as we could see, and in spots there are outcroppings 

 of ledges of quartz. The tops of the rounded granite hills 

 are hard and glazed, so that they glisten in the sunlight as 

 if covered with a coating of ice. There are but a few stunted 

 trees, and where any vegetation can get a foothold tough, 

 wiry grass grows; this is the home of many rabbits and 

 rattlesnakes. 



Zamuro we found to consist of three grass huts newly 

 built and occupied by sick, miserable Venezuelan families. 

 The heat is terrific, and mosquitoes and sand-flies first begin 

 to make their presence known in considerable numbers. 

 The river scenery is really magnificent; huge boulders of 

 fantastic shape strew the river-bed, and rear their heads 

 high above the seething torrent; against them the water 

 dashes ceaselessly, surging and swirling in mad endeavors 

 to destroy them, only to be baffled by the immovable sen- 

 tinels and hurled back again to collide with their brethren 

 equally unrelenting and equally impervious to the roaring 

 onslaught. The scene is awe-inspiring. 



The next step was to secure ox-carts to carry the im- 

 pedimenta to the Rio Catanapo, three miles away, and this 

 we crossed in a canoe, landing practically at Atures. The 

 governor of the Upper Orinoco, General Roberto Pulido, 

 made Catanapo his home. He was ordinarily supposed to 

 reside in San Fernando de Atabapo, but on account of his 

 arbitrary methods of government he was so great ly disliked 

 that he decided it was "healthier" to live elsewhere. 



