218 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



The fazenda, or ranch-house, called Palmiras', was reached 

 at noon. It was an interesting place; the long, low, ram- 

 bling buildings formed a square with an open court in the 

 centre, in which trees and flowers grew and pigs and chickens 

 roamed at will. All about lay marshes, papyrus swamp, 

 fields, and forests. Herds of half-wild cattle grazed on the 

 vast range, and marsh-deer stalked among them or along 

 the borders of the thick papyrus growths. The main ob- 

 ject of this excursion was to obtain the lordly jaguar. Men 

 were sent out to locate fresh spoor of the animals, and after 

 a several days' hunt were successful. Then a motley cav- 

 alcade, headed by the colonel, set out to find the big, 

 spotted cat. Some of the party rode horses or mules, and 

 a number of natives were mounted on steers. A pack of 

 dogs, used to tree the quarry, trotted excitedly beside the 

 riders. After many hours the faint call of a bugle far away 

 announced the return of the hunting-party. Other bugles 

 took up the signal, and by the time camp was reached all of 

 the natives were lined up and eager to inspect the trophies. 

 Within a week two jaguars, a second ant-eater, and a few 

 deer had been secured. There was not sufficient time to 

 undertake a systematic study of the bird life, but the spe- 

 cies found in the immediate vicinity of the house were of 

 ample interest to occupy the attention of a naturalist for 

 many months. Foremost among them was the hyacinthine 

 macaw, largest of the entire parrot family. The dazzling 

 blue creature is more than a yard long, and the beak is so 

 powerful that it can gnaw through the tough hull of the 

 castanha, or Brazil nut, a feat unequalled, perhaps, by 

 any other bird. It is a powerful flyer and usually there 

 were only two or four together; but some of the flocks we 

 saw numbered ten or twelve birds. But as a whole, the 

 bird is rare, and as it inhabits the wildest pantanales and 

 jungles, its graceful flight and loud screams are one of the 

 rare rewards of those only who venture far beyond the 

 beaten route of travel. The closet naturalist may inspect 

 the stuffed skin, but it can no more convey to him an im- 



