272 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



disturbances that must have occurred when the Andes were 

 young. 



Shortly before sundown we came suddenly to the brink 

 of a crater-like rent in the plateau and, on the bottom of 

 the huge gash, thirteen hundred feet below, we could see 

 the compactly built mass of edifices and green gardens of 

 La Paz. The situation of the city is unique. One has no 

 intimation of its nearness while speeding over the high, cold 

 piano alto (which has an elevation of thirteen thousand 

 three hundred feet) until the very edge of the fissure is 

 reached. The sides are precipitous, but numerous foot- 

 paths make their way up or down the steep declivity. The 

 far slopes of the Andes are checkered with cultivated fields; 

 a roaring stream, the Choqueyapu, tears its way through 

 the floor of the amphitheatre, and the series of snow-cov- 

 ered summits form a magnificent background for the un- 

 usual spectacle. 



The steam-locomotive was taken off and an electric one 

 substituted, and then the train slowly backed down along 

 the face of the incline to the station below. 



The impression of La Paz, gained from the first brief 

 view above, is soon dispersed upon nearer and more inti- 

 mate acquaintance. The streets are narrow, crooked, 

 paved with small stones from the river-bed, and veiy steep. 

 Walking any length of time entails a great amount of ex- 

 ertion on account of the high altitude; fortunately, carriages 

 are not lacking, and a tramway also provides a ready means 

 of locomotion, or I am afraid few travellers would ever see 

 very much of the inner life of the city. With the exception 

 of a few churches and government buildings that are worthy 

 of note on account of their size and architecture, the build- 

 ings are low and of a primitive type, whitewashed and cov- 

 ered with tiles or thatched. 



Ordinarily the streets are all but deserted, but on Sun- 

 days and fete-days a motley crowd throngs the winding 

 thoroughfares. There are full-blooded Indians of the Ay- 

 mara race, clothed in picturesque though not beautiful gar- 



