CROSSING THE BOLIVIAN HIGHLANDS 291 



The day after leaving the Yungas we reached the most 

 dangerous part of the whole trail. After crossing a num- 

 ber of steep, high ridges, we came to an abrupt slope, the 

 side of which is seared by a huge gash where the treacher- 

 ous white clay keeps sliding constantly into the river, many 

 hundreds of feet below. Each caravan desiring to pass 

 must first cut a ledge in the moving mass of soft, muddy 

 earth, and then hurriedly lead the mules across, one at a 

 time, before the newly made trail is obliterated. The spot 

 is very appropriately named Sal-si-Puedes (pass if you can), 

 for any one succeeding in crossing this slide is veiy apt to 

 possess the ingenuity required to negotiate the remainder 

 of the trail. 



That night we made camp early on the banks of the Rio 

 San Antonio, called Chuspipascana by the Indians, which 

 means Mosquito River. The altitude of the site is only 

 one thousand eight hundred feet above sea-level. The 

 river was a clear, rapid stream one hundred feet wide, 

 flowing through a rock-strewn bed a quarter of a mile 

 across. Swarms of black flies, sand-flies, and other sting- 

 ing or biting insects immediately came out to greet us. 

 Birds were very abundant. In addition to the jays, ant- 

 wrens and manakins, which remained in the forest, flocks 

 of parrots and toucans flew across the open spaces. One of 

 the most unusual occurrences was the great flocks of a 

 new species of giant oriole; there were not less than one 

 thousand of these birds in a single flock, and they roamed 

 almost everywhere, coming close to camp to inspect the 

 tents, and to discuss them in hoarse cries of curiosity or 

 resentment. They were beautiful creatures, of a deep 

 chestnut color with light olive-green head and neck; the 

 face is devoid of plumage and of a flesh-color, while the tip 

 of the bill is deep orange. The flesh is highly esteemed 

 by the natives and we found it quite palatable. 



As soon as the cargoes had been neatly placed in a pile 

 and covered with a tarpaulin to keep them dry the peons 

 cooked their supper; this consisted of a thick soup made 



