358 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



In very cold weather a fire is kept burning day and night, 

 and all the occupants of a house burrow deep into a pile 

 of sheepskins and blankets close to the smouldering embers. 

 We persuaded one of the women to bring goat's milk to 

 camp each morning, but in this we had the greatest dif- 

 ficulty. Only by payment for a week's supply in advance 

 could she be induced to perform this service. With past 

 experiences with their fellow countrymen these Indians 

 have learned to regard all strangers with apprehension. 

 On several occasions we had ample opportunity to observe 

 how the average paisano treats the Quechua. Should night 

 overtake him on the trail, he stops at the nearest hut and 

 demands food for himself and his horses. In the event that 

 the owner has nothing to offer, he draws revolver or rifle 

 and shoots any fowls that may be running about or, lacking 

 these, a sheep or goat, and seizes whatever else he can find. 

 Should he see an attractive blanket, it also is taken. In 

 the morning a few centavos are thrown on the ground and 

 he continues on his journey. 



As a general rule, we found that if these Indians were 

 treated in a frank, honest manner they were quite amiable. 

 The little woman we had engaged to bring us milk trudged 

 down from the mountain-top daily in faithful compliance 

 with her obligations. She brought cheese also, and oc- 

 casionally a few eggs. As it gradually dawned upon her 

 that we really could be trusted, she became talkative and 

 seemed to take an interest in our occupation. She spoke 

 Quechua only in common with practically that entire tribe, 

 which makes no attempt to learn Spanish; or, if they are 

 able to understand it, will make no effort to speak the 

 language. 



Upon seeing a woodpecker we had collected, she gave 

 a sigh of satisfaction; for, according to the Indian's belief, 

 they are birds of ill omen. If a pair of them make a nest 

 near one of the huts, they are said to be excavating a tomb 

 for a member of the family who will soon die. Oven-birds 

 are looked upon with favor and are encouraged to remain 



