THE CHACO 387 



half concealed by willows and fruit-trees, lay a village of 

 whitewashed houses. At half past four in the afternoon 

 we reached the settlement, called Tafi del Valle, and soon 

 after were comfortably ensconced in a hut hospitably pro- 

 vided by one of the inhabitants. After the fifteen and a 

 half hours' uninterrupted ride over a difficult trail we were 

 ready for a journey into a still more remote region, and 

 the sun was shining brightly the following morning when 

 we again returned to the stern realities of this world. 



Tafi del Valle is a most delightful place. Even though 

 the altitude is seven thousand feet, the surrounding peaks 

 shut in the valley and protect it from the icy winds. There 

 is no natural forest in this region, but groves of willows 

 have been planted near the houses; to these, large numbers 

 of birds came to spend the night. Hawks were especially 

 abundant and of many kinds — we collected no fewer than 

 seventeen species during our ten days' stay; then there 

 were also burrowing owls, larks, flycatchers, thrushes, and 

 many other birds. Some species which ordinarily live in 

 brush-covered country had become adapted to their barren 

 surroundings and were nesting in holes excavated in banks 

 of earth. When the birds had reared their broods, rats, 

 mice, and pigmy opossums occupied the old nesting-sites. 



A clear, cold stream, which flows through one side of 

 the valley, spreads out at the lower end over a large area, 

 forming lagoons and marshes. Geese, ducks, coots, night- 

 herons, and sandpipers made these places a favorite resort. 

 Pectoral sandpipers were not uncommon, and were so fat 

 that they were unable to fly and could be taken with the 

 hands. There were also flocks of stilts; they are beautiful 

 creatures, either when flying in compact formation, with 

 measured wing-beats and outstretched necks and legs, or 

 when standing motionless in the shallow water, their snowy 

 underparts reflected in quivering outlines. Lapwings 

 screamed and cackled in resentment of our visit and fre- 

 quently frightened away flocks of water-fowl which we were 

 stalking. 



