4 ST. J AGO— CAPE DE VERD ISLANDS. [chap. i. 



inhabitants. The black (3hildren, completely naked, and looking 

 very wretched, were carrying bundles of firewood half as big as 

 their own bodies. 



Near Fuentes we saw a large flock of guinea-fowl — probably 

 fifty or sixty in number. They were extremely wary, and could 

 not be approached. They avoided us, like partridges on a rainy 

 day in September, running with their heads cocked up ; and if 

 pursued, they readily took to the wing. 



The scenery of St. Domingo possesses a beauty totally unex- 

 pected, from the prevalent gloomy character of the rest of the 

 island. The village is situated at the bottom of a valley, bounde<^I 

 by lofty and jagged walls of stratified lava. The black rocks 

 afford a most striking contrast with the bright green vegetation, 

 which follows the banks of a little stream of clear water. It 

 happened to be a grand feast-day, and the village was full of 

 people. On our return we overtook a party of about twenty 

 young black girls, dressed in excellent taste ; their black skins 

 and snow-white linen being set off by coloured turbans and large 

 shawls. As soon as we approached near, they suddenly all 

 turned round, and covering the path with their shawls, sung with 

 great energy a wild song, beating time with their hands upon 

 their legs. We threw them some vintems, which were received 

 with screams of laughter, and we left them redoubling the noise 

 of their song. 



One morning the view was singularly clear ; the distant moun- 

 tains being projected with the sharpest outline, on a heavy bank 

 of dark blue clouds. Judging from the appearance, and from 

 similar cases in England, I supposed that the air was saturated 

 with moisture. The fact, however, turned out quite the con- 

 trary. The hygrometer gave a difference of 29*6 degrees, 

 between the temperature of the air, and ihe point at which dew 

 was precipitated. This difference was nearly double that which 

 I had observed on the previous mornings. This unusual degree 

 of atmospheric dryness was accompanied by continual flashes of 

 lightning. Is it not an uncommon case, thus to find a re- 

 markable degree of aerial transparency with such a state of 

 weather ? 



Generally the atmospliere is hazy ; and this is caused by the 

 falling of impalpably fine dust, which was fouiid to have slightly 



