426 NEW ZEALAND. [chap, xviii. 



been mistaken for our father-land : nor was it the triumphant 

 feeling at seeing what Englishmen could effect ; but rather the 

 high hopes thus inspired for the future progress of this fine 

 island. 



Several young men, redeemed by the missionaries from slavery, 

 K^ere employed on the farm. They were dressed in a shirt, 

 jacket, and trousers, and had a respectable appearance. Judging 

 from one trifling anecdote, I should think they must be honest. 

 When walking in the fields, a young labourer came up to Mr. 

 Davies, and gave him a knife and gimlet, saying that he had found 

 them on the road, and did not know to whom they belonged ! 

 These young men and boys appeared very merry and good-hu- 

 moured. In the evening I saw a party of them at cricket : when 

 I thought of the austerity of which the missionaries have been 

 accused, I was amused by observing one of their own sons taking 

 an active part in the game. A more decided and pleasing change 

 was manifested in the young women, who acted as servants within 

 the houses. Their clean, tidy, and healthy appearance, like 

 that of dairy-maids in England, formed a wonderful contrast 

 with the women of the filthy hovels in Kororadika. The wives 

 of the missionaries tried to persuade them not to be tattooed ; 

 but a famous operator having arrived from the south, they said, 

 *' We really must just have a few lines on our lips; else when 

 we grow old, our lips will shrivel, and we shall be so very ugly." 

 There is not nearly so much tattooing as formerly ; but as it is a 

 badge of distinction between the chief and the slave, it will pro- 

 bably long be practised. So soon does any train of ideas become 

 habitual, that the missionaries told me that even in their eyes 

 a plain face looked mean, and not like that of a New Zealand 

 gentleman. 



Late in the evening I went to Mr. Williams's house, where I 

 passed the night. I found there a large party of children, col- 

 lected together for Christmas-day, and all sitting round a table 

 at tea. I never saw a nicer or more merry group ; and to think 

 that this was in the centre of the land of cannibalism, murder, 

 and all atrocious crimes ! The cordiality and happiness so 

 plainly pictured in the faces of the little circle, appeared equally 

 felt by the older persons of the mission. 



December 24:th. — In the morning, prayers were read in the 



