A PILGRIMAGE 61 



With all, tie was jolly, even-tempered, obliging, 

 and a source of unceasing entertainment through- 

 out the journey. He gave me an interesting trip, 

 and an experience which subsequently proved in- 

 valuable ; and should this fall under his eye in the 

 Far East, I hope he will accept the felicitations of 

 a pupil to the master. 



Despite a cross in his left eye, Phra Earn carried 

 a certain air of distinction which he supported im- 

 periously in intercourse with his people. He was 

 about fifty years of age, with a generous stomach, 

 an assortment of wives, and a pair of gray cloth, 

 black buttoned spats he had got from a German 

 on one of his occasional trips to Bangkok, and 

 which he wore, over bare feet, only when in full 

 dress. He was a loud and constant talker, with a 

 voice that even Italian could not have mellowed, 

 and which rasped the nerves of those within reach 

 of its nasal, unmusical, Siamese twang. 



Seated tailor fashion on a square of cocoa mat- 

 ting, with several attendants arranged in semi- 

 circle behind him, Ram spent the greater part of 

 the night of our arrival unfolding the extensive 

 plans he had made for my hunting. Between dis- 

 closures he consumed betel-nut ; and as it was my 

 first intimacy with a betel-nut chewing gentleman, 

 the performance interested me greatly. Prepara- 

 tion of the morsel began by the approach of one of 



