AND THE MALAY STATES 45 



Then there were copper, ivory, silver, and gold carving and filigree 

 work that would look just as well in America, but there were too many 

 around. I did not see the Sacred Tooth, which is carefully guarded, 

 and needs an order from the government before one is permitted to 

 view it. The true believers are sure that it was once a part of Buddha's 

 dental equipment, while the scientists say it belonged to a crocodile. 



I didn't tarry long in Kandy, but took the morning train back to 

 Colombo, as I now had more definite knowledge of the typical planta- 

 tions, and how to reach them, as well as letters to the men in charge. 

 Perhaps, as a hint to others, I should say that when I left the hotel in 

 Kandy, after paying my bill, the following servants put in a claim for 

 tips: Bedroom man, bath man, head porter, waiter, doorman, gharri 

 driver, the porter who puts your bag into the train, and any other native 

 who can catch your eye. 



It was early in the morning when*the writer and Miguel de Silva r 

 the Singalese plant collector at Peradeniya, who was loaned me by 

 Director Willis, entered rickshaws and started for Slave Island station, 

 on our way to Kalutara. For some distance the railroad follows the 

 sea coast, disclosing the beautiful villas of Europeans, native fishing 

 villages, and the blue sea itself. According to custom, Miguel rode 

 with the natives, and I, in the car reserved for the whites, was not able 

 to question him as I had planned. A friendly planter, however, did 

 explain that the land over which we were passing was very valuable, 

 through the palms which grew upon it, that were used in the production 

 of the native liquor, "arrak." He said also that the ownership of these 

 palms was most complex, one tree often being owned jointly by as many 

 as five natives. I had noticed that many of them had a wattle of reeds 

 braided about the stem some six feet from the ground, and was amused 

 to learn that this was to guard against thieves. It seems that the night 

 climber cannot surmount this apparently flimsy barrier, nor remove it 

 without making such a crackling that the owner is awakened sufficiently 

 to remonstrate usually with a knife. 



Arriving at Kalutara, Miguel appeared, and with a commanding 

 gesture secured a coolie to carry my bag, and we wended our way to 

 the ''Rest House" for breakfast. As the day was already a scorcher, its 

 broad verandahs, square rooms, and cement floors gave one an impression 

 of coolness which was truly grateful. Here I had ''early tea." consist- 

 ing of ''papaya" (the luscious fruit of the paw paw tree), ham and eggs, 

 bread, butter, and coffee an excellent meal, the whole charge for which 

 was, I believe, one rupee. 



