AND THE MALAY STATES 63 



things that I did and didn't say. When he had finished with me I sum- 

 moned Miguel and we took rickshaws for Maradana Junction station 

 and there bought tickets for Karawanella. After a somewhat tiresome 

 ride in the train we reached our destination and I found Mr. W. For- 

 sythe, of the Sunnycroft estate, awaiting me with a very swell rig 

 consisting of a fine horse and high cart. Into the trap I got, and Miguel 

 hiring a bullock hackery, we drove merrily off. The Forsythe con- 

 veyance soon left the other far behind, and as evening fell and it began 

 to grow chilly, I was moved to ask how much further Sunnycroft might 

 be. I then learned' that it was eight miles from the station, whereas 

 I had been told that it was two. As the road was constantly ascending, 

 it grew colder and colder, and as Miguel had my coat, I suggested to 

 Mr. Forsythe that I was in for a chill. He therefore stopped at the 

 bungalow of a planter friend and secured^ a coat for me and our journey 

 was then continued. Had it not been for the chill in the air, I should 

 have enjoyed the ride mightily, as the road was most picturesque, wind- 

 ing through native villages, crossing rivers and often crowded with 

 strange conveyances. Mr. Forsythe entertained me very pleasantly that 

 night, and the next morning we walked some eight miles over his planta- 

 tion. His land was exceedingly hilly, but under a high state of cultiva- 

 tion, showing many hundreds of acres of fine tea. He also had about 

 three hundred Hevea trees planted in 1897, which would average forty 

 inches in circumference. In addition to this he had planted rubber 

 everywhere through his tea, but very little of it was over two years old. 

 In his section he found that when the Hevea trees were young it was 

 a constant fight to keep the porcupines and wild pigs from eating them. 

 He was, therefore, protecting the young trees in certain sections with 

 wire fences, the lower sides of which were buried in the ground. 



It was during this walk that I discovered what it meant to get 

 chilled in a tropical climate, and to have the chill develop into an incipi- 

 ent fever. Although the sun was scorching hot and I was exercising, 

 I wasn't perspiring a particle.' When we got back to the bungalow in 

 the early afternoon, therefore, after due apology for being ill, I took 

 twenty grains of quinine, and wrapping myself in blankets, went to 

 sleep. The quinine or the blankets did the business, and the next morn- 

 ing I was able to take a bullock hackery at five o'clock and rattle and 

 bump down the mountain road to the railroad station, whence I took 

 train for Colombo. 



The next day I was fortunate enough to meet Mr. F. Lewis, the 

 assistant conservator of forests, who has done a great deal to further 



