148 RUBBER PLANTING ON THE 



window opened to the floor, and to keep thieves out and guests in, 

 was latticed with half-inch iron bars. It was luxury, however, when 

 compared with the native huts, and we rested well, and had no advent- 

 ures. To be sure, I did have a queer experience the first night when 

 I lay down for awhile with one hand hanging down by the side of 

 the bed, and on drawing it up something dropped off with a soft thud 

 that had me wide awake in an instant. A light and a search revealed 

 nothing, and I came to the conclusion that it was one of the small vam- 

 pire bats that are common in Mexico, and that alight so gently on man 

 or animal that even if wide awake they do not know it. So common 

 are they, and so troublesome, that horses and mules are invariably kept 

 under cover after dark, as these little blood-seekers rarely venture into 

 houses. 



The next morning it was quite cool, as a norther was blowing, 

 and the thermometer registered only ninety-five. On arising, we took 

 our clothes in our arms, and clad only in pajamas, walked down the 

 sandy street two blocks to the baths, where we luxuriated for an hour 

 or more. After coffee, we visited the market, and saw the far famed 

 Tehuantepec women in their very striking headdress, of which so much 

 is said ; but aside from its becoming effect, no one seems to know much 

 about it. I personally was interested to see how it was made, and so 

 walked behind some of the dusky beauties as they marched off, and took 

 a good, long look. The headdress is simply a white dress with a wide 

 flounce around the bottom. This flounce is starched stiff and put upon 

 the head so that it stands up like a huge ruffle. The rest of the gar- 

 ment, sleeves and all, hang down the back. I almost wish, however, 

 that I did not know this, as the effect is not half as artistic since my 

 eyes were opened. 



There was really little of sightseeing in Tehuantepec; the market, 

 the pueblo across the river, the ruins left by the earthquake four years 

 before, were about all. Perhaps it was the climate, but it was more 

 fun to sit on the brick sidewalk in front of the hotel and watch passers- 

 by, dog fights, and predatory pigs than to chase around after information. 

 Anyhow, there was no rubber grown there, and rubber was my errand to 

 the Isthmus. Speaking of dogs, every Mexican and Indian in the hot 

 country is a dog owner on a generous scale. Nor does he care what 

 the breed, or the size, so long as the dog has four legs and a bark. 

 They are, as a rule-, a mangy lot, exceedingly lean, and many of them 

 are really half coyote. All are plentifully supplied with fleas, which 

 they generously divide with all with whom they come in contact. 



