CLOSING INCIDENTS ^ 403 



dome high above the other dwellings, while within the enclosure the lines of 

 huts were joined together, or partitioned off into courts with walls of grass. 



Here our ex-President and party were cordially received and heartily 

 welcomed by the thirteen-year-old King of Uganda, Daudi Chwa, or Daniel 

 Chwa. At each gate they passed officers on duty who opened and shut it for 

 them, jingling the big bells which were hung upon them. The first court 

 passed, they were greeted by courtiers dressed in gorgeous uniforms. The 

 king, through his prime minister, Sir Apolo Vagwar, expressed his pleasure 

 of having the honor of receiving the Americans and wished the expedition 

 success during their stay in Uganda. 



Like old Rome, Kampala is a city of seven hills. Each division or sub- 

 urb is on a separate hill. When street cars in the future invade this secluded 

 abode of seventy thousand picturesque Bagondas, it will have to be elevated 

 roads, for the hillsides are so steep that they cannot be ascended on horse- 

 back, and between them are marshy ravines with little turbulent streams rush- 

 ing down to the big lake. 



The ex-President found this wonderful city in the wilderness traversed 

 by innumerable broad roads or streets, on each side of which were reed fences, 

 and back of these rich and luxuriant banana groves, which almost hid the 

 native huts from the stranger's view. The whole city looked like an im- 

 mense garden, and nothing but the government buildings, the king's palace 

 and the mansions of his ministers and officers of state, the spires of the Ro- 

 man Catholic Cathedral and other Christian churches could be seen towering 

 above the broad sea of leaves. 



Colonel Roosevelt found the native savage inhabitants of the capital of 

 the Uganda Protectorate highly intelligent, quick and keen of perception, 

 clever and polite and full of admiration for the white man, whose civilization 

 they looked upon as something extraordinary. They were anxious to en- 

 tertain their American guest to the best of their ability. 



Uganda was first discovered by the African explorer, Captain Speke, in 

 1869, and visited by Stanley in 1875. His glowing description of this re- 

 markable black kingdom and its powerful and intelligent king, the famous 

 Mutesa, aroused a great interest in England and the first Protestant mis- 

 sionaries were sent out there in 1877. Their work has been so successful 

 that now 300,000 of the natives have been converted to Christianity. 



Colonel Roosevelt visited the late King Mutesa's grave near Kampala. 

 It was an immense mound or earthen pyramid watched by two old women, 



