22 SECOND THOUSAND QUESTIONS IN AGRICULTURE 



decide the growth is becoming too dense. Such summer pruning is 

 seldom necessary or desirable on trees which have been properly 

 winter-pruned. 



Pear on Quince. 



It seems to me that pear, top-worked upon old quince stumps, does 

 not make a -very dependable union, and may break down in a few years. 

 If I put these pears upon quince root by budding in nursery, will they 

 bear early and abundantly? 



You will get the same results and a stronger union by working on 

 a younger stock. Put in cuttings when the new growth of the quince 

 becomes dormant. Make them about ten inches long and put three- 

 quarters of their length in the ground. Allow one shoot to grow 

 from each cutting, and if it gets large enough, put in a pear bud 

 next August to remain dormant until the following spring. If the 

 growth is too thin to put in a bud in the fall, allow it to grow all the 

 season and graft the following February in the nursery row. Get one 

 summer's growth on the bud or graft and transplant. (See also 

 Vol. I, Part I.) 



Grafting Over Young Prune Trees. 



7 have several prune trees from which I wish to propagate about 

 200 young trees. I desire to get bearing trees in the quickest and 

 most satisfactory way. 



Buy either myrobalan seedlings or budded French prune trees 

 on myrobalan whichever you can get most handily from the nursery. 

 Plant these in orchard form. Select small but thrifty trees and when 

 the swelling buds indicate the beginning of activity, whip or tongue 

 graft them about 18 inches from the ground, with scions from the 

 trees you wish to reproduce. Wrap the whip grafts with a waxed band 

 and whitewash over all, from below the ground to the top of the 

 scion, and look out for suckers which may take too much sap. Those 

 grafts which grow will make you the trees you desire. Grow shoots 

 from all stumps on which the grafts fail, and bud them soon as you 

 can get plump buds to work with, which will be in June, and when 

 the buds have taken, reduce the growth above them to start growth. 

 In this way you ought to get a full stand of the kind you want (on all 

 transplants. which start at all) the first summer in the orchard. 



Quince Growing. 



I have land that seems especially adapted to growing quinces. Trees 

 began bearing at three years and in the fourth year were heavily laden 

 with fine large quinces. I would plant largely to these trees if I were 

 sure of a market. 



The demand for quinces is limited and largely local. Thirty 

 years ago there was an idea that many more could be grown for 

 Eastern sale, but experience showed that only small shipments can 

 be made to the East. Although the California quince is larger and 



