H 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



November, 



climbing shnibs tail excel them. There is a 

 neatness and richness in their appearance, 

 which rendei's them in keeping with the trim- 

 mest of gardens. 



* * * 



November 2o. One constantly heai-sniuch of 

 the growing of specimen plants in the window 

 or greenhouse. I am a lover of specimen shrubs 

 or trees on the lawn, and feel more proud of 

 these perhaps, than I do of my specimen plants 

 in pots and boxes. They possess the quality of 

 pemianeuc>- in a gi'eater degi'ee. 



To gi'ow such well, only requires that they 

 have a well-prepared and suitable s<^il, an abun- 

 dance of room for development, and no injus- 

 tice done them in pnining and other aft^r cai-e. 



A list of handsome specimen shrubs that 

 have gi'own up quickly on our gi'ounds, as the 

 result of good treatment, embraces Lilacs, 

 Weigela,Deutzia gi*acilis,Forsythia viridissima, 

 Double-flowering Plum, Spiraeas. Japan Quince 

 and Euonjinus. 



THE HOUSE PLANTS. 



From now until after the winter solstice near De- 

 cember's end, when the days again begin to length- 

 en, we are in the dull season of window gardening. 

 Both sunlight and heat, those important elements 

 to plant life now recede. The former, we have no 

 means of augmenting by art, the latter can be pro- 

 vided for, in fair degree. 



Along with the lessened sun power, is apt to come 

 much cloudy weather, so that were it not for what 

 was gained in the past, in stored up plant strength, 

 to help now. and then the hope of the future, the 

 task of plant growing would be discouraging. But 

 if there was no lack of attention (hiring summer, to 

 have all plants strong and healthy, these sustaining 

 conditions will serve now to make our windows not 

 only not desolate, but they may show some bloom. 



Cactuses. Keej) quite, but not wholly dry; in 

 moderate light, if full light is not to spare. Much 

 heat is not needed. See Epiphyllum. 



Gallas. Encourage growth by free watering, and 

 ample light. The soil should be rich. 



Camellias like a temperature of 50° to ^6" now. 

 Water moderately: keep the foliage clean by fre- 

 quently sponging it. 



Carnations should be showing bloom : water mod- 

 erately, keep staked, but don"t crowd the leaves 

 into bunehes when tying up. 



Cinerarias need coolness, and ample pots always. 



Cleanliness about the plant stand, in the way of 

 picking off dead leaves, wilted flowers and the like, 

 as soon as any appear, and then in brushing over 

 the surface where the pots stands daily, helps ap- 

 pearances much. 



Cuttings struck last month and earUer. should 

 now be in small, clean pots. 



Deutzia and other shnibs may. for early bloom- 

 ing, now lie brought into moderate heat. 



Dutch Bulbs may yet be started in pots and 

 glasses. See (_)ctober number. 



Epiphyllum. Enconrage early bloom, by giving 

 a light, warm place; moderate watering, until 

 growth starts, then more. The soil must be light, 

 open, and well drained. 



Ferneries or plant cases should now be under 

 way. Plants with attractive leaves, and especially 

 Ferns and Lycopuds should be ehietly relied upon. 

 Most bulbous tlowei-s do well in these however. 

 Plants with fiiiit like the Ardisia or the hardy 

 Partridge or Squaw berr}- Mitchelht repens, of the 

 woods are very useful. After plantmg, air daily, 

 by tilting up the cover, water with extreme caution, 

 as there is great danger of overdoing this part. 



Geraniums kept from bloom last summer, will 

 now be full of fl^owers. Over-watering is injm-ious. 

 For fine specimens as seen from the room, turn the 

 plants often: to be finest as seen from the street. 

 never turn them. 



Heat. A night temperature ranging from 4.5* to 

 tK)* suits the average collection. Do not thnik that 

 high heat can make up for dark days; ifs the other 

 way, in cloudy weather there should be less heat, 

 than in sunny weather. 



Hydrangeas should now be at rest, by keeping 

 the soil all hut dust diy. Alight cellar is the best 

 place for them through the wint-er. 



Insects increase less rapidly at this season than at 

 most othei-s. but they increase. Head off future 

 trouble from these, by clearing off every one seen. 



Ivy. See that no scale insects are on the leaves 

 or stents, to remove which, use an old tooth bnish 

 and soapsuds, cleansing later with clear water. 



Japan Astilbe. a cut of which is given below, 

 as well as the other hardy plants mentioned in this 

 department of the October nundjer. may still be 

 lifted for forcing. The roots shouhl be quite 

 closely crammed into the pots. 



Lemon. Treat like Oranges. 



Oleanders. Treat like Hydrangeas. 



Oranges. Water less freely than in summer. If 

 sickly, lack of drainage most likely is the cause, in 

 which case repot providing plenty of clean drain- 

 age. For scale treat as for Ivj'. 



Ozalis. To encourage bloom, keep in a light, 

 warm place and water moderately. 



Primroses. Future well doing, depends on good 

 care now. Keep near glass: water moderately. 



Roses. Monthlies that were lifted, shoiUd remain 

 in a pit or other cool place this month out at least. 

 Those smnmered in pots, may be urged on for 

 bloom. Tliey need a warm, light place, and fre- 

 quent leaf -sponging. Mildew must be killed, by dust- 

 i ig flowers of sulphur on the leaves wdien wet. 



Sponging off the leaves frequently, is one of the 

 secrets of successfid plant culture. It must take 

 tlie place of syringing as practised in hot houses, 

 a thing that is done here evei'y day. Accumulated 

 dust on the leaves is destructive to plant life. 



Stocks. Treat like Primroses. 



Verbenas that were stuck last month, .should 

 have the tip pinched out to induce branching. Small 

 pots, a cool, light, airy place and no stint of water 

 suit them. 



Water plants that are strongly in flower, more 

 than those that are not; such as are making httle 

 growth less than those gi'owing more. 



LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN. 



Christmas Rose, HfUeboms nider. This remark- 

 able plant, which blooms in the winter if the season 

 is mild, svicceeds well with the slight protection of 

 a cold-frame. Plants lifted, and taken to the win- 

 dow or the plant house flower well in either place. 



tection over the roots in the fall, to prevent alteniate 

 thawing and freezing during winter. In places ex- 

 posed to winds, there is no better cover than ever- 

 green boughs; if hay or similar material is used, 

 some boards or brush should be thrown on this, to 

 keei> it from being scattered about by the wind. 



Lawns showing slight irivgidarity of surface, may 

 easily be evened up now. by spreading some fine 

 eaith intothe depressions; next spring the grass will 

 spring up through this. 



Leaves. These are valuable to use for mulching, 



[ protection, compost, etc.. and a good lot should be 



gathered now. For the foraier uses, they make a 



light and effective coat. When used as a mulch, do 



not remove in the spring but spade under. 



Pansy plants are hardy, but suffer from alternate 

 freezing and thawing: cover after the first bard 

 freeze, with a light coat of bay or leaves. 



JAPAN ASTILBE. 



Chrysanthemums gi'owing outside must be 

 staked. If shelteretl liy sash, or in l)ad weather bj' 

 matting, they will Idooin much finer for it. 



Daises. Treat as for Pansies. 



Drains, (.'lean these generally and see that the 

 outlets are clear. New ones, when needed, should 

 be put down this fall in i)reference to spring, then to 

 badly delay other work. 



Dutch Bulb planting, while the earlier done the 

 better, need not cease, so long as the ground remains 

 unfrozen. About the end of the month, cover over 

 the bed with coarse litter or evergreen boughs, for 

 protection. 



Evergreen Shrubs, including Mahonia, Box and 

 Rhododendrons, suffer less from cold than from sun 

 and wind in the winter; they should be protected 

 somewhat. Place Evergreen boughs, say one or two 

 onthesouthsideof each shrub, the butt ends thrust 

 i ito the earth to steady the boughs. 



Forget-me-nots. Treat as for Pansies. 



Hardy Plants growing in beds and rockeries, suc- 

 ceed better year by year, if they receive some pro- 



B 



wMMmmwm 



TRENCHING ILLUSTRATED* 



Summer Flower Beds. Dig over before winter, 

 tmiiing in some manure at the same time. Heavy 

 land, that is to remain unoccupied until spring, 

 should be left rough without breaking the clods; the 

 effects of rain and frost will reduce these to powder 

 by spring. 



Tree Planting. For trees and plants of undoub- 

 ted hardiness, there are some advantages and no 

 great I'isks in fall planting. Some kinds like Larch. 

 Birch and Beech it is always best to plant in the fall. 

 With Evergreens it is different; plant only in the 

 spring or just after midsummer. After several hard 

 frosts, the earlier that fall planting can then be done, 

 the better: if leaves remain, strip them off. Stake 

 securely in windy places: mound up as illustrated 

 under Fruit (iarden and Orchard last month. Never 

 plant a tree or shrub deei>er than the collar. 



Trenching is a suitable operation for this season; 

 it should lie practised wherever gardening is done, 

 especially on a small scale. For large areas subsoil 

 plowing often takes its place. Trenching consists 

 in working over not only the surface earth of fertile 

 nature to its full depth, but also the comparatively 

 poor subsoil beneath, to at least a spade's depth. 

 How this is done the cut will help to show. First 

 the surface soil at A, say 4 feet wide and running 

 across the bed or plat is thrown entirely out ex- 

 posing subsoil D. This is then worked over with the 

 spade its entire length, intermixing some manure 

 at the same time. Now the soil of space B is thrown 

 into the vacant space A, exposing subsoil at E. 

 This is treated the same as D w^as, and so on across 

 the piece, returning the first soil thrown out, into the 

 vacancy that occurs at the end. 



PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



Achimenes. Keep in about .50° of beat, with the 

 earth dry during winter. 



Airing as to time and amount, must depend upon 

 the weather and the kinds of plants. There will 

 be warm spells yet when the ventilators over 

 most plants, may be kept open fi*om morning until 

 night, and perhaps some into the night. When it is 

 chilly and windy outside much less air should be 

 let in. At such times, open the ventilators only so 

 much, that the draft will be felt but about three 

 feet from the opening. This for the generality of 

 kinds, but Carnations, Violets and others that dis- 

 like heat, may have more upon them. In chilly or 

 windy weather lift the sashes on the side of the 

 bouse away from the wind. 



Amaryllis should now be at rest. The evergreen 

 sorts must not get so dry that the leaves will shrivel; 

 deciduous kinds may get quite dry. 



Bouvardia. This plant blooms as well when 

 bedded as ua pots and with less trouble. If grown in 

 .5.5° of beat, the form and color will be better than in 

 a higher temperature. Stake in such a manner that 

 the air and light can reach the soil. 



Boronias. See that they are free from mildew 

 and given-rty. 



Caladiums. Treat like Achimenes. 



Camellias. Give full sunshine from now until 

 early spring. Syringe twice a week, air freely in 

 fine weather. .50° to .55° at night, affords the best 

 temperature during the blooming season. 



Carnations need plenty of air even in cold weath- 

 er. A slight touch of fi'ost, while it does them no 

 good, would hiu't them less than continuous close 

 confinement and dampness. 



Cyclamens. The early plants should have for 

 blooming 45° to.5U° of heat at night, with some more 

 in the day. To retard plants for later bloom, keep 

 them in a temperature of not above 45° 



