26 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



December, 



ing a mound of earth on a la\^^l or elsewhere, 

 with it. I have a mound of this kind here, occu- 

 p>'ing a drculai- space about S feet across on a 

 lawn. The mound is shapely and rises about 3 

 feet above the sm'f ace at its highest point. The 

 Periwinkle forms a solid mass of foliage, which 

 with being of a much darker shade of gi'een than 

 is the grass, presents a contrast that is decided- 

 ly pleasing. AVhen the plants are in bloom the 

 mound looks still handsomer. This kind of an 

 embellishment is one thatisnotonly most read- 

 ily made, but one that is actually less trouble 

 to care for, than the same sjiace devoted to 

 grass would be. 



* 

 I am satisfied from long experience that more 

 plants are injured bj^ having the pots too large 

 than too small. This is especially true in the 

 eai'ly winter season when plant growth is in- 

 active. More than once I have taken plants in 

 band for treatment that were not thriving at 

 all well at the time. But by knocking them 

 out of the pots, reducing the balls of earth about 

 two-thirds, and repotting into pots several sizes 

 smaller than they stood in before, using good 

 earth, they have conmienced to improve quickly 

 and well. The main trouble was found in the 

 fact that the pots had been too large. 



THE HOUSE PLANTS. 



To keep the window plants vigorous through this 

 month of much cloudy weather, dark days, and 

 cold, is a sure test of a grower's ability. With tlie 

 coming of January, there may be no less cold— in 

 fact there will be an increase of cold, but with it 

 there will also be more sunshine, a condition the 

 lack of which, can never be made up for by artificial 

 means, while heat in a measm'e can be. 



Let growers not therefore begi'udge any extra 

 pains that plants maj' now take, for the better the 

 health of these now, the larger will be the reward 

 when the time of more natural growth again comes. 



Adiantums ^r Maiden Hair Ferns, succeed quite 

 readily in the window, with the same care that any 

 ferns need. They requu'e no direct sunshine. 



Christmas Roses or Hellebores that were lifted in 

 the fall, will blortni freely, in a cool window. 



Cobcea Scandens. Few plants succeed better in 

 the house: its worst enemy, green tty, nmst be 

 guarded against closely at all times. 



Callas ought to be ^crowing with vigor, and if so- 

 will need plenty of water. This plant, let us not 

 forget, is a s\ib-aquatic, hence, little in danger from 

 over-watering; more, of not being watered enough. 

 The saucers may have water much of the time. 



Chrysanthemums after bloom. may be removed to 

 any place where there is little or no frost; if the 

 temiieratiu-e is low enough to prevent growth, light 

 is nut needed. Here they may remain until spring. 



Cytisus kept in a cool place, not too dark, suc- 

 ceeds well; much heat with dryness of air invites 

 the red spider. The plant blossoms in the spring. 



Dutch Bulbs of the earlier kinds, like Komau 

 Hyacinths and Due Von ThoU TuUps, that were pot- 

 ted early in October ought now to be near bloom; 

 all of the early batch should be in heat. 



Hyacinths like sun; Tulips get along well with 

 little light. High heat suits neither of tliese, or anj' 

 others of this class, as well as does a temperature of 

 So*". But there must be no frost. Admit air freely, 

 it will promote a sturdy gi-owth that will assure fine, 

 enduring flowers. Growing bulbs, need more water 

 than the average of plants. Manure or soot water 

 applied as the shoots develop will help the bloom. 



Fresh air. Natural light and heat both lack 

 somewhat now. but fresh air, so important to plants, 

 is not lacking. See that the collection receive a 

 plenty in all mild weather; even when the weather 

 is cold, some should be admitted. One reason why 

 plants do so well in kitchens, is that the oft-opened 

 outside door admits fresh air freely, here. 



Fuchsias nmst not be crowded. Give g^rowing 

 plants plenty of pot room, with light, rich soil. 



Hyacinths in Glasses. It is yet time to start these. 

 The single varieties are preferable to the doubles. 

 Low glasses that are broad at the base are better 

 than tall ones, because less liable to be upset: 

 the flowei-s can be better supported in them also. 

 Colored glasses suit root growth better than clear 

 ones do. but the roots in the latter can be so much 

 better seen, that a few of these are also desii'able. 



To start, fill with soft water to near the base of the 

 bulb, when in its place. Set in a cool, dark closet, 

 but where no frost entei"s. for four or six weeks, 

 after which bring to light. Inspect the gla.sses oc- 

 casionly from the first, reijlacing any water that 

 may have been lost by evav>oration. Charcoal in small 

 pieces in the water tends to keep it pure. 



Insects. For small collections, we have gi-eat 

 faith in the thumb-nail as a remedy against all kinds. 

 But on some plants, hke the Stocks or Gilly-Howers, 

 Callas, etc., they get into the buds and ilowers. and 

 cannot be easily reached. Then we use tobacco dust 

 on the pests, such as can l>e had at the cigar shops 

 for almost nothing, and nm through a fine sieve 

 for the sittings. This proves very effective. 



Lily of the Valley brought in after it has had 

 frost, will grow and fiower well in the window. 



Mignonette. Keep the soil open by stirring the 

 surface occasionally. The nearer to light the better. 



Over-Watering. There is some danger of this 

 now when plant growth is not rapid. Geraniums 

 and Primroses are especially susceptible to injury 

 from this. Whenever we are called to look at plants 

 of these that are ailing, we expect to see the cause, 

 in too much water given, and are rarely disappoint- 

 ed. Do not however run into the other extreme. 

 I Palms. All these if suitable in size, succeed well 

 in the window. Keep the foliage perfectly clean. 



Propagation. There may be slips suitable to 

 root, of (ieraniunis, Fuchsias. Verbenas, iUyssum, 

 etc : put in now. these will be strong plants by spring. 

 ' Stapelias must be kept dry now like Cactuses. 



Stocks sown this month will tlower by next April. 



Violets. Remove the runners and all dead leaves. 



Washing Plants. This is such a desirable thing 

 ' to do. and to do often, that we urge it frequently. 

 For the task, a Drenching Board like the one here- 

 with figured, is very useful. No explanation is 

 needed beyond giving this cut, save to name the 

 dimensions. A good size is 2 ft. liigh at the rear, with 

 the front so that a pail can stand beneath to catch 

 the water. The board may be IH in. wide at the upper 

 end, and a little narrower further down. With such 

 a board, there is no excuse for dirty plants. 



LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN. 



Evergreens. Small globe-headed Arbor Vitres, 

 and other kinds, often suffer in winter from snow 

 settling into their tops, dividing them. A shed made 

 of two boards to form a letter V. and this inverted 

 over any such, will prevent this, and prove a good 

 protection otherwise. Where fine Evergi-eens are 

 much exposed to the wind, a screen across the 

 path of the prevailing winds, will be of good seiwiee. 



Fountains and artificial plant aquariums must 

 have no water in the basins over winter to freeze 

 and injure them. A shed of boards should also be 

 placed over them to keep out wet and snow. It is 

 well to bank up around these to prevent injury to 

 the masonry from severe freezing. 



Hardy Flowers. Ifs a mistake to think that 

 hanly jjlants need no winter pi'otection; they will 

 live without it. but their growth and bloom will be 

 better next year for covering the roots now. Nature 

 sets us the ti-ue example: each faU she sheds down 

 leaves as a winter cover to the roots of plants and 

 trees in the ground. Hay or leaves form the best 

 material for this purpose; they may be applied to a 

 depth of several inches. 



Lawns that need mamuing, as all do occasion- 

 ally, may be treated now to advantage. But where 

 it is objectionable to have manure laying all win- 

 ter, as near the house, the applying may be deferred 

 until spring, with fair results. The best manure is 

 that which is so old, as to give oif no bad smell, 

 and so fine that nothing remains to ever rake away. 



Roses. The Bengal and Bourbon sections among 

 the Monthlies, maybe wintered where they stand in 

 most sections with safety, by attention to covering. 

 This is best done, by taking a spadeful of earth 

 away, next to the plant on one siiie, depositing it 

 close to the hole on the side away from the bush. 

 Then bend over the plant in the direction of the hole, 

 and cover it with a small m<.»und of earth, or else 

 with sod, the grass side up. 



Tea-roses cannot be protected to live in the 

 open ground during winter, in the Northern States. 



Hybrid Perpetuals should be cared for as directed 

 for recently planted shrubs, imder Shrubbery. Hyb- 

 rid Teas need the care prescribed for the Bengals. 



Shrubbery. For appearance sake, if nothing more, 

 the surface of cultivated shrubberies should be 

 pointed over (spaded shallow) in the fall. There 

 is also no better time for applying a coat of manure, 

 if the growth made by the shrubs the past season 

 shows this is needed. Use onlj- well decayed manure ; 

 any with straw in it is apt to invite mice and this 

 will lead to trouble, by their girdling the shrubs. 



Recently planted shrubs, should have their branch- 

 es protected with straw, and their roots sheltered by 

 some kind of cover for several wintei-s at least, after 

 planting. It is easy to straw them up neatly and 

 well. Bring the branches closely together by the 

 use of strong twine, then set straight straw closely 

 around, binding with twine. Bend over the Ujp of 

 the straw, to bring it under the upper circle of twine. 



In renovating old shrubberies, cut out all dead 

 wood, and trim the plants according to their require- 

 ments, to prevent the forming of a jungle. 



Trellises, Stakes, Vases and fixtures that are 

 movealtle, as a rule, should be brought under cover 

 for the winter. To repair and paint them is in order. 



Walks. A single line of plank, a foot or more 

 wide, run along the center of these, for the winter, 

 is a decided improvement. Be prompt in keeping 

 all walks and drives that are used and especially 

 street walks, cleared of snow. If the work is hired 

 done, or any way. let it be attended to very early 

 in the morning, both to accomodate early passera, 

 and to prevent the snow being tramped, hindering 

 the clearing. 



PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



Achyranthes. See directions for Alternanthera. 



Alternantheras and similar heat -loving bedding 

 lilants kept up for stock to propagate from, must 

 have fair attention in these coldest months. Usually 

 such are grown with the greatest ease, if but a tem- 

 perature of 60° is provided and common treatment 

 besides. If much young stock is wanted in the 

 spring, propagation may begin at once to the extent 

 of all good cuttings, not taking them close. 



Alyssum wanted strong in the spring, should now 

 be propagated either from seeds or cuttings. 



Camellias. Water moderately; too much or too 

 little water at the root, is a common cause of the 

 discouraging trouble of buds dropping. This plant 

 does not soon show diyness, for the leaves never 

 Hag from this or any other cause. Too much wet 

 at the roots causes the root fibers to become in jiu-ed, 

 hence, impaired and disaster to the fiower buds is 

 quite sure to follow. If the pots are over -large, this 



DRENCHING BOARD. 



last named condition is also liable to be met. 

 Lightly sprinkling the plants three or four times a 

 week, is a necessary course at this season. 



Carnations. These useful flowers should now be 

 in full bloom. They cannot tolerate much shade for 

 best results. When bedtled under glass as is now 

 usually done in commercial houses, there is some 

 danger of keei^ing too wet at the root. In pot cul- 

 ture, they do not care for larger pots than about six 

 inches across. An occasional dose of liquid manure 

 or lime water, is of great benefit. 



Centaureas or Dusty Millers continue to be popu- 

 lar. The species Candida, both in young and old 

 plants, is now liable to injiu*y from over-watering. 



Cinerarias. Given a moderate tempeiature, say 

 45 degrees at night, a light place, plenty of air, and 

 ample space and pot room, and no plants are easier 

 to grow or more rewarding for the trouble required 

 than these. But while on the one hand they cannot 

 stand heat, on the other a frost injures them quickly. 



Coleus, Observe directions for Alternanthera. 



Ferns. These requu-e no shading overhead from 

 now on. Adiantums delight in warmth, but it must 

 not be at the expense of too little fresh air. Because 

 they love moisture, it is often too freely applied in 

 the way of syringing. Keep near the glass. 



Fuchsias. Winter-flowering ones should be en- 

 couraged by ample pot room, fertihty and free 

 watering. Strong plants trained to the roof, for 

 having the fiowera danghng from above, have a 

 charming effect. Start up spring and jnununer 

 flowering plants, cutting them back and shifting 

 into fresh soil, using small pots to commence on. 



